Handbrake Cable

Clearance to wheel weights

Cable Length:

Late chrome bumper: The cable exits the prop-shaft tunnel A, with two mounting points B (battery box) and C (axle tube), and the grease nipple X relatively close to the outside of the car.

Early rubber bumper exits in the same place, but only one mounting point B. Ordinarily this would put a grease nipple much further under the side of the car, but there wasn't one originally on RB cars. This is the longer CB cable on an RB car, but because of the position of the bracket the grease nipple is much further inboard. Now I've discovered the difference I'll probably reposition the bracket as per the CB car, and add the second bracket. That should make the grease nipple more accessible as well support the cable better, stopping it hitting the fuel tank. It can easily be reversed as and when I need to fit a pukka RB cable.

Cable Stretch:

An old stud-wheel cable measuring 30" from the tip of the nipple in the short cable at the compensation lever end, to the tip if the U-clip that attaches to the lever sticking out from the back-plate. A new, almost certainly wire-wheel axle cable measures 28.5" here.

A 1" 'shortener' fitted between the nipple and the fitting on the end of the outer sheath at the compensation lever

Clearance to wheel weights: The cable and lever should not project past the edge of the brake drum:

Leaving plenty of clearance - at least 1/2" - for stick-on wheel weights:

Compensator prior to 1977:

Orientation on Bee - released on the left, applied on the right:

Vee ditto, with shortener hence the compensator points more towards the off-side ... somewhat muckier than when first fitted:

Compensator components (from Brown & Gammons as the Leyland Parts catalogue omits some components). The two halves of the compensator lever (18, 19) are clamped together by the screw, lock-washer and nut (21, 22, 23) around the trunnion on the cable outer at one end, and bush (20) at the other. This assembly should then pivot freely on the 'link-pin' (14) with the stiff-nuts (15, 17) tightened. Stiff-nut 17 attaches the assembly to the bracket that is bolted to the diff casing:

Not even that shows the full story though. As you can see from the previous photos there is a large washer under the visible nut that butts up against the shoulder on the 'link pin', and with the compensator removed from the pin there is a crinkle washer and a plain washer that fits over the pin and butts up against the mounting bracket. If these last two are too thick, or if the hole in the outer washer is too large (i.e. it is an 'inner' washer) and allows it to go past the shoulder, tightening the nuts will quite likely jam the compensator preventing the off-side wheel being braked by the handbrake, or even worse locking it on. If slackening the visible nut frees the compensator up then that is what has happened. The same will happen if the compensator bush is seized to the link pin, but in that case only if the nut behind the bracket is left slack will the compensator be free to move, which allows the link pin to wobble about in the bracket wearing both parts.

Compensator 1977-on:

Showing the rubber flap attached to a flange on the axle casing, to which a bracket on the handbrake cable is attached. The rear pivot and mounting for the anti-roll bar can be seen on top of the axle casing (top left), but other than both being attached to the tube in adjacent areas the two are entirely separate.

Showing the rear of the diff, where the handbrake pivot used to be, with the anti-roll bar well out of the way.

November 2016: It was only when someone asked a question about an additional support for this cable that I realised something is missing from my pal's car. There should be a rubber strap (BHH 2136) through which the cable passes, attached to the diff cover bolt to the right of the level/filler plug in the above image, and indeed there does seem to be the spacer and remains of the strap under the bolt (arrowed). The Moss Europe image below shows how it is used (item 59). This strap deteriorates rapidly and apart from the bit under the bolt and washer may well vanish. Lack of it does not affect handbrake operation, but may allow the cable to rattle against the axle.

Showing the anti-roll bar, rear pivot on the axle casing, and front pivot mounting point on the body.


An old cable showing the stud that goes through a reinforced section of the tunnel to secure the outer (left), and the threaded adjuster rod:

The handbrake assembly has a lever (BHH1469) in the tunnel that is similar to the compensation lever on the diff casing, but the two halves are welded together: (Brown & Gammons)

Trunnion AHH5322 (left) and brass adjuster nut ACH5104: (Leacy)

The trunnion (26) fits in the two holes of the handbrake lever (37) (it can fall out when removing or refitting the cable and roll some distance!), the threaded section of the cable fitted with a 1/4" x 3/4" washer (28), an expanded spring (24) and another washer (27) is passed through the fitted trunnion, and finally the adjuster nut (25) is screwed on: (Brown & Gammons)