Early unit     Roadster vs GT     Remove/refit     Vent Seals     Vent Glazing Seal     Restoration    

Early Roadster: Having a bracket on the side (left) through which two screws go into the inner door skin, instead of the short front leg for the two studs. Later roadster and all GTs (right) have a short front leg with bolts from the front of the door frame, covered by plastic plugs.

Roadster vs GT: Roadster QLs sit on top of the door on a short rubber gasket AHH7478 (RH) AHH7479 (LH):

GT QLs also sit on top of the door but behind a full-length finisher AHH7476 (RH) AHH7477 (LH):

The reason for the GT finisher is that the roof-line of the GT is a good inch higher than the roadster, which means the GT drop-glass has to be taller as well (as is the quarter-light). But there is no more space at the bottom of the door for the glass to retract into, so the additional height is left sticking above the top of the door when wound fully down. Not a good look, hence the finisher to cover the additional height.

Remove/refit by John Maguire in Australia:

Both the vent and the drop-glass can be removed and refitted with the other still in place. To remove or refit the vent by itself remove the drop-glass rear channel and slide the glass back towards the lock, then undo the vent bolts and nuts. As you raise the vent twist it through 90 degrees so the bottom bracket clears the top of the door opening.

Vent Seals:

'A' - large gap exposing pivot; 'B' - square-cut and doesn't extend back far enough: It looks like the vent isn't low enough compared to Vee, but in another picture the hinge is shown pulled down as far as it will go. It's possible a strip of rubber glued below the seal would lift it up and close the gap, hopefully without causing the sides to bow out. (Shaun Loader)

Vee and Bee: 'A' - seal fills gap (about 7.5mm); 'B' - angled cut covering pivot (not that it would be visible anyway with no gap):

Top: Rimmers, Bottom: MGOC. 'A' - Rimmers seal noticeably narrower between QL frame and vent than MGOC. 'B' - Rimmers doesn't seem to be cut away by the pivot, a thinner section extends all the way across. It's possible that this folds flat as the vent is closed, covering the pivot even though the main section filling the gap is narrower. (Shaun Loader)

Vent Glazing Seal:

Flat rubber strip 27H8705 as supplied by all the usual suspects: (Moss Europe)

Ben Colomb's vent seal, obviously a moulded seal way too long for this application:

A partially dismantled rear quarter-light showing how the seal is nowhere near as deep as the channel, so as this channel is almost twice as deep as the front vent the rear seal could well be a reasonable fit in the front vent: (Sven Hinrichsen)

Rear quarter-light seal BHH582: (Moss Europe)

I did wonder if the base of the seal might be thicker than the flat strip, but it seems unlikely, The sides of the moulded strip are thicker than the flat seal would be, but as the two channels are the same width that's unlikely to cause a problem either: (Moss Europe)


As received

Sheared front top stud

Bottom stud plate corroded away on one of them

As a result of a question by C Cummins on the MGOC forum, note that unlike the chrome frames above, stainless frames have the bottom stud plate pop-riveted to the side of the leg and wrapping round to the front, on both roadster and GT, instead of being riveted to the front. Also the front face of the channel is flat, and not recessed as on the chrome, so this stud plate has a double-bend to position the stud in the same place as before. Although shown detached I'm not aware they are available separately, this picture is from an eBay ad for remanufactured units. Maybe they make them, and would supply them ...

Some pitting on the handle brackets ...

... only light pitting elsewhere

Snapped hinges

Countersunk slotted screws on the opening vents, rivets to the frames on chromed units ...

... both riveted on the later stainless units. Replacement hinge pop-riveted on Vee rather than have the job of removing and replacing the glass from the vent frame.

Replacement stud plates with 2BA threaded holes

Reinforcement plates for the above stud plates. These go inside the door, short one to the front, with the hole nearest the front. Images from Leacy Classics

Plenty of clearance for nuts on top of the latch plate

Fully dismantled and ready for the rechromer

Bottom stud repair on the right. The light rusting is on one side only, to be treated along with the other one before return to Terry.

Parts as returned, the other one is just the same

A length of brass tube goes over the pivot, under the spring. This roadster one that had to be cut off is 27mm long and has an OD of 0.32" and an ID of 0.255" (one end was sound enough to measure):

Two lengths of brass tubing from Bob's Models. What remains after making four roadster tubes is 10", so originally they must have been about 14". One has an OD of 0.31" and an ID of 0.285", the other has an OD of 0.28" and an ID of 0.245":

This means one fits inside the other really snugly, and the overall OD and ID are very close to the original:

Final assembly, again the other one is just the same

What an innocent-looking little thing that pesky hinge is