Steering Column/Rack Alignment

Early and mid-era columns   Later column

The tool shown in the Leyland Workshop Manual

Re-measuring my new RB V8 UJ - 1.2415" or 31.5mm. Done more carefully than before, I have laid a white pencil in the bolt holes so it will be lying at the bottom of the hole i.e. the middle of the pencil should equate to the middle of the hole. One caliper finger is over the middle of the pencil, and the other is resting in the middle of the spider, as judged from the concentric rings on the end-face of the cup.

The Moss tool as received, showing the relative positions of the two holes.

Measuring from the tip to the centre of each hole 1.755" or 44.58mm ...

... and 1.177" or 30mm, so 1.5mm out for the RB UJ:

About 1/8" misalignment on the roadster:

And after correction:

Early and Mid-era columns: The column outer clamps 'A' and 'B', and the concertina bulkhead seal 'C'. 'A' also allows up and down movement for column UJ alignment, and when the two nuts on top of the heater shelf are slackened the whole bracket and clamp assembly 'B' will slide from side to side for horizontal alignment:

Later full energy-absorbing column: The UJ controls the position of the inner, and as the position of the inner in the outer is controlled by the upper bearing, the UJ also controls the position of the column brackets 'B' to the mounting points. The slots in those brackets allow a significant amount of fore and aft adjustment, as well as 'pivot' to move the UJ end of the column from side to side. Spacers between the column brackets and the mounting points control the vertical position of the UJ end of the column:

Note my V8 column shaft has a notch for the UJ clamp bolt meaning the UJ can be attached to it in only one rotational position:

And the rack shaft is the same! This means that you can only correct steering wheel alignment by a combination of the position of the wheel on the shaft and the relative positions of the track-rod ends on the track-rods. By comparison the roadster rack shaft is grooved all the way round, meaning that the nearest rack/UJ spline can be used to correct steering wheel alignment in addition to the other methods:

Plate (A), seal (B) and alignment gauge attached to column before refitting. Subsequently I chose to attach the plate and seal to the toe-board first, then push the alignment gauge (screw removed) on the end of the shaft through them. The plate at the bottom of the column is only tightened to the toe-board once the column has been aligned, it should not be used to force that end of the column into the correct position:

Column aligned, although with this later column you may need to leave a small gap between the tips or you may not get the clamp bolts through: