Seat Removal

Front screws clearly visible with the seat pushed fully back, but unfortunately covered by the frame just enough to prevent a socket and ratchet (either directly, via a 1/4" drive or wobble extension) on the hex head. This means using a 7/16" ratchet ring spanner, or if you don't have one of those a laborious task with an open-ended::

However there is a stop block at the rear of each of Bee's and Vee's outboard runners which stops the seat going back as far as it might:

With an 11/32" socket on my 'door spindle socket driver' the locknut can be slackened, then a 9/16" spanner can be used on the square block to unscrew it (easier than moving the socket on the nut):

That allows the seat to go back just enough further to get a socket wrench on the front screws:

With the wider Mk2 tunnel the seat cannot move forwards far enough to get clear access to the rear screws, but with the fronts out the front of the seat can move sideways and be pushed further forward:

Runner kit and slats from Moss Europe. Three holes in the floor runners but only two in the slats. The inner pair in the slats are for the MGB, I had to cut those myself when I replaced mine in 1990/91 as they came with the inner hole at one end only:

Note the above floor runners have adjuster holes at both ends of both floor runners, so there is only one runner and it fits either side of either seat. Original floor runners did not have adjuster holes at the rear so there was a left and a right for each seat, with a hole at the rear for the stop-block on the outer. I see no reason why the rear-most square hole in current floor runners could not be used for the stop-block:

Spacer thickness is 0.34", slat thickness is 0.21". The spacer diameter is 0.733" and the slat width is 1.18":