Contents  Index  So you think you want an MGB or V8? 
Body  Brakes  Clutch  Cooling  Electrics  Engine  Fuel  Gearbox  Heater  Ignition  Propshaft  Rear axle  Steering and Suspension  Wheels and Tyres 
Miscellaneous  Downloadable PDFs  The sectioned MGB at the British Motor Museum, Gaydon


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How_Much?   Full-length_Ramps    UK_MOT    Nut_Screws_Washers_and_Bolts_(and_Grommets)    Decals    Speedos    Terminology    Workshop_Tools    What_Year?   
Links: General   Body   Brakes   Clutch   Cooling   Electrics   Engine   Fuel   Gearbox   Heater   Ignition   Propshaft   Rear_Axle   Steering_and_Suspension   Wheels_and_Tyres  

  How Much?

This original price list is from when I bought a Marina in 1973 but shows how much Bee would have been as she was bought in the same year - by someone else of course:

Historical prices taking inflation into account, from Lyndsay Porter's 'Guide to Purchase & D.I.Y Restoration of the MGB', sensibly renamed 'The MGB Restoration Manual', showing massive price increases in 72-73 and 77-79:

See also his annual sales figures.

  Full-length Ramps

Servicing Bee and Vee was a right pain in the new house this year as I'm not allowed to use ramps, axle stands or jacks on this drive. So all the raising had to be done either half in and half out of the garage, the short ramps slide on the smooth painted garage floor so can only be used on the rougher section near the entrance, but that's narrower, and I had to keep moving the cars to get first one end up then the other.

A pal of a pal was getting rid of a nearly new pair of full-length ramps (as he now has a four-post lift!) and they were offered to me for £500. As they were around £1700 new that was something of a bargain. However as they were over a 200 miles round trip away in Hertford it wasn't really feasible to go down just to have a look at the size and try and work out if they would fit in my garage, so pal took loads of pictures and measurements. I pondered long and hard over those, decided they would fit, so the next question was how to get them here. Son-in-law has a van but they were just too long to fit in that, so it meant hiring one. However we were planning on moving some furniture down to my son near St Neots, so a 'two birds with one stone' trip was planned. All went well until we got down to Hertford and I saw just how big all the bits were - gulp! Too late to go back now though, so we loaded them up.

Once home I could take more detailed measurements, and realised that to assemble the two ramps and their lifting tube I either needed more width than I'd bargained for, or several beefy blokes to assemble them outside, then carry them in at an angle to get them through the door! However being American they were built for their monster vehicles, and the ramps were intended to be positioned further apart on the lifting tube than I needed for the MGBs. Even positioned as close together as they would go the centre of the ramps is still wider then the centre of the tyres. However it allowed me to chop a few inches off each end of the lifting tube, and I could assemble them in the garage. Each ramp is in two sections so the length can be adjusted as well, but even one of the sections was a struggle to move on my own, and I couldn't imagine being able to move all four of them plus assemble them. So a few days later son-in-law came round and we got them in and put them together.

The lifting tube has to be able to pivot up to allow the jack under, and down to allow the vehicle to clear them as it is driven on and off. But unless the ramps were very precisely positioned in all three orientations the tube could be very stiff to turn. But R-ing TFM I discovered the tube should have been greased where it passes through the larger tubes under the ramps! So this time single-handedly I wiggle the one ramp off the tube by dragging each end sideways a bit at a time, then I can pull the tube out of the other ramp. Grease that end, reinsert, grease the other end, then wiggle the first ramp back onto the tube again. Now the tube pivots really easily and is much less dependant on precise orientation.

The ramps are lowered both ends when not in use so I can park one of the cars on them, and that 'raises' (ho ho) a couple more issues. Because the entry end is now about 4" off the ground the manual describes how to make a pair of pre-ramps - easy enough. What's a bit more of an issue is lifting the 'blunt' end of each double-length ramp while you position the support tower underneath it - no easy task. I can get a jack under the end (sides won't work as they are too close to the ground) and raise it far enough to get blocks under, then move the jack round to the side away from where the tower fits while I raise it the rest of the way, but that is a bit of a faff. So various Wallace and Gromit devices are being discussed, one of the maddest being a rope tied to the back of the car positioned just in front of the ramps, run over a pulley on a beam, and down to a hook at the end of the ramp - drive car forward, lift ramp, slide tower under. Split the rope and do both ramps at the same time :o) But in the end I settle for a block and tackle attached to a cross-beam conveniently near that end of the ramps.

Another slight inconvenience is that my relatively compact jack (I tour with it in the boot of either car) won't raise the lifting tube far enough in one go to lower the swinging legs and lock them in position. I have to jack it part way, then put axle stands under the tube, then slide a block made out of timbers with a sheet steel top under to stand the jack on while I raise it the rest of the way. I've looked at alternative jacks but to get one capable of lifting all the way in one go, but low enough profile to fit under the tube when lowered, is way too expensive for the very occasional use it would get.

High enough to get under and work with ease, but not so high I can't reach things when lying on my back.

I can only envy Herb Adler his space and 2-post lift ... I think! While Vee was at the paintshop I was able to use a 2-post lift to fit the cross-member and exhaust, amongst other things, and it was really hard work on the neck with my head bent back all the time, and on the arms. I know I'm also reaching up with my ramps, but at least I'm lying down with my head supported and can have a proper rest every now and again, instead of having to stand there all the time.

YouTube video here.


January 2021 and Lockdown 3: MOT testing stations are still open so if your car needs one you must take it for the test or declare SORN..

22nd March 2021: MOT rules have been changed again to ACCEPT LED AND HID headlamp conversions as long as the vehicle was first registered before 1st April 1986.

1st January 2021: MOT rules have been changed to fail cars with LED headlamp conversions:

4. Lamps, reflectors and electrical equipment
4.1. Headlamps
4.1.4. Compliance with requirements
"Existing halogen headlamp units should not be converted to be used with high intensity discharge (HID) or light emitting diode (LED) bulbs. If such a conversion has been done, you must fail the headlamp."
The irony is the phrase 'Existing halogen headlamp units'. Most MGBs came out of the factory with non-halogen headlamps, so even this has created another 'grey area', they probably should have used the term 'incandescent' instead.

The full DVSA MOT manual can be found here - published 20th May 2018, at the time of writing last updated October 2019. Question on lighting frequently crop up and The Road Vehicles Lighting Regulations 1989 can be found here.

If you are asked how much your car weighs for the brake test ...


September 2019: Still ramifications and misinformation rumbling around following the exemption for cars over 40 years old from the MOT. Some people are recommending you get a £25 safety check instead of an MOT. Others are finding garages that say they can't perform an MOT test on an exempt vehicle. And at my recent MOT for the V8 at a different place I found the car parked outside after about 40 minutes but I had to wait the full hour as they said if they completed the test in under an hour they would face questions from the DVSA. Dave Birkby on the MGOC forum, who is an MOT inspector covering 85 MOT stations writes:

The MOT tester who claims that an exempt vehicle cannot be tested, is not fit to be a tester. He is a risk to the integrity of the MOT scheme. He clearly does not read the notices sent to each and every MOT tester, but is 'clicking the button' on the system anyway to state that he has. If he does not acknowledge the notice he is automatically suspended from testing.

Almost every vehicle type can now have a MOT even if exempt, and that includes a vehicle that is exempt because it is not yet 3 years old, or is foreign. Even your finally finished restoration of your barn find that has not been tested for 30 years can have a MOT. The MOT manual even states that a 1905 car does not require a handbrake!!! It is also an offence under the MOT scheme to refuse to test a vehicle other than for a small number of legitimate reasons.

The letter in EMG ... incorrectly suggested that there is a national scheme available for £25 or so and people should use it. There is a national scheme, it is called the MOT and prices vary from £0 - £55, you chose the one you want. There is no such other national scheme.

Re Pauls post about timings, this is a subject that I hate and is my biggest challenge. Another myth (created by MOT testers and the many millions of 'wannabe' testers) is that it takes X amount of time to test or they will be locked up. This is simply not true and those testers should concentrate on quality testing and not being tea break lawyers. The test takes as long as it takes using all of the mandatory equipment required for that type of vehicle. So, unless a car is a complete basket case that requires in depth scrutiny, then an emissions exempt classic may only need half an hour. One that needs a gas check may need more time, one that needs a decelerometer brake test will take longer again. Again, leaving a car logged on whilst it being outside is an offence. Plus, if it is common place, it makes me look harder at their data ... which sometimes shows up a bingo win result. They are using the longer test times to skew their average test time, i.e. hiding the 2 min tests for their mates. Doesn’t work anymore though chaps.

Each to their own, but I would far rather have the official record and documentation in the event of anything untoward, instead of some miscellaneous piece of paper with no official standing, or even worse nothing at all.

June 2019: Can you drive a failure away from the testing station or not? ZS failed on the back box leaking, and Halfords proceeded to give me my options including scrapping it (!) or taking it somewhere else to get it fixed, but stated that a fail immediately cancelled the existing MOT (which still had a week to run), and if I drove it away I could be picked up by ANPR cameras and fined, and my insurance would be invalid. I was surprised that I hadn't heard of this immediate cancellation before, and when he advised leaving it so they could check the rest of the system to see what else might need replacing I smelt a rat - why wasn't the full story on the failure document? Back home I checked the DVSA database and the failure and advisory details were there, but so was a statement that the existing MOT was in force until 3rd July i.e. a week hence.

Searching online threw up this document "warning motorists that they face prosecution if they drive their car following an MOT failure even if its previous test hasn’t expired." However in February 2016 that was updated saying: The DVSA has updated its website again to say the complete opposite of what it originally said. It now states: "You can take your vehicle away if your MOT certificate is still valid.". Then in September 2018 another update: "The situation as it stands is as follows: an MOT fail before the previous MOT certificate elapses does not necessarily mean you can’t drive it away, unless there is a dangerous problem listed on the certificate and the minimum standards of roadworthiness aren’t met.", which seems fair - and clear - enough.

Then find this DVSA document dated May 2018 which states:

Dangerous - A direct and immediate risk to road safety or has a serious impact on the environment. Do not drive the vehicle until it’s been repaired. Fail

Major - It may affect the vehicle’s safety, put other road users at risk or have an impact on the environment. Repair it immediately. Fail

Which tends to confirm the September 2018 update above ... except this document was withdrawn on 13th June 2019!

Apparently still current is this document dated 20th May 2018 which says exactly the same for the Dangerous and Major failures. If it wasn't for the "Do not drive" statement for a 'Dangerous' defect I'd have said the "Repair it immediately" for a 'Major' defect also meant you couldn't drive it away - how immediate is immediate?

Then Dave Birkby (an MOT inspector i.e. inspects the work of MOT testers) came up with this document which includes the information:

Driving a vehicle that’s failed

You can take your vehicle away if:

  • your current MOT certificate is still valid
  • no ‘dangerous’ problems were listed in the MOT
Otherwise, you’ll need to get it repaired before you can drive.

If you can take your vehicle away, it must still meet the minimum standards of roadworthiness at all times.

The 'minimum standards' document really only mention lights, brakes and tyres, so very minimal.

December 2018: I thought I understood the new VHI and MOT exemption from May 2018 until I read December's EMG. That states on p6: "as soon as the car reaches 40 it will be presumed to be MOT exempt immediately from that date". However the Guidance document states "If the vehicle has a current MOT certificate but you anticipate that on expiry of that certificate you will wish exemption from future MOTs you will at the time of relicensing be required to declare that the vehicle is a VHI." which seems to contradict it. On renewing Bee's tax in December, with a current MOT, I was NOT offered the chance to make a declaration. The MOT expires in June 2019, but I won't be renewing Road Tax until December 2019. What happens in the interim when I have no MOT and have not made a declaration? Supposing one were required to present one's documents at a Police Station? The DVLA have confirmed that you will only be required to make the declaration if there is not a current MOT when you retax, and you are covered between expiry and the next road tax renewal when you will be required to make the declaration if there is no current MOT. If you don't make the declaration then the renewal will not proceed. So really the guidance document should say words to the effect of "If the vehicle does not have a current MOT certificate you will at the time of relicensing be required to declare that the vehicle is a VHI." Of course whether one has a current MOT or not, when being used the vehicle must be roadworthy at all times. Hopefully that's the end of it!

May 2018: As of 20th May 2018 there are new defect types, stricter rules for diesel car emissions, and some vehicles over 40 years old becoming exempt, see this DVSA document.

After much chatter back and fore the upshot seems to be that only the most outrageous modifications involving structural bodywork are likely to be considered a substantial change, as the 'upgrades' typically talked about can probably all come under "changes made to improve efficiency, safety or environmental performance are considered acceptable", including more powerful engines when the emissions are lower. And even then if you don't attempt to declare it VHI and MOT-free then no one will know about it anyway ... except, one presumes, your insurance company for road-going cars. If you do make the declaration then it is taken at face-value, there are no checks. Some of the various pronouncements on what the changes might have meant when first proposed can be found here.

MOT Preparation Updated March 2012 by Michael Beswick [my comments]: April 1st sees the introduction of the recent MOT changes. Up to then these items are advisories. This is not exhaustive but covers those things likely to concern classic MG owners or perhaps owners of classic MGs:

  • Hazards - not obligatory prior to 1/4/80, but if fitted will be tested and must work
  • Steering lock is only applicable post 1/9/2001
  • Dust covers - apart from existing steering rack, those ones on the bottom of the kingpin. They need to prevent the ingress of water and must not prevent the egress of grease.....but could be contentious
  • Coil springs - slight change - they fail if they do not locate properly when the vehicle suspension is put back under load, or if their function is impaired
  • Engine mounts
  • Drivers seat must move and lock, though not in every position! [August 2018: If there is an adjustment mechanism, then it must allow the seat to be moved, and locked in a selected position. However if the seat is bolted to the floor and cannot be moved other than by unbolting it, then that is not a fail. The regulation gives reason for failure as "fore and aft adjustment mechanism not working as intended" see DVSA MOT manual section 6.2.5 Driver's seat Defect para b i.. If the intention IS that there should be no adjustment, by the seat being bolted directly to the floor, then it is working as intended. The DVSA have apparently said that this failure for a fixed seat gives grounds for appeal, if 'discussion' at the station fails.]
  • Reg plate - same as before - silver and black is prior to 1/1/73 (although some claim it has been amended to include any vehicle in the 'historic' taxation class, although I have not been able to find any official statement to that effect), but if shown as a "new" bit of the test it may remind testers of the requirement. (Keep a spare set of modern ones...)
  • Tow bar security (as now) but + electrics
  • Electric wiring generally
  • Battery security
  • Fuel pipes - damaged or chafed

September 2010: Michael Beswick found and has sent me this [my comments]:

"I was asked by a friend's son what he should check before sending his car for MOT, to avoid it failing on something minor. The list is not exhaustive, and assumes no mechanical knowledge or tools. Just newspaper to kneel on and maybe a pair of rubber gloves! It is also SIMPLIFIED, and makes no attempt to cover items that require equipment to test them or requires knowledge of the testers' manual. Probably takes 15 minutes.

"MOTs are a test - the tester may not adjust anything other than Headlamp aim during the test [if you suspect headlamp aim is off then drive to the test centre having removed the headlamp rings yourself, I suggest!]. Certain minor items - such as blown bulbs - can be replaced at the end of the test before the car is passed. Garages may well charge for fitting an item, especially if it is discounting the test [VERY silly to go for a test with blown bulbs ...]. (Currently £54 max but available for £39.95 etc) So it pays to avoid this if possible. Certain failure items must be retested for no fee. Partial re-tests may or may not incur a fee. Details are shown on a poster that MOT stations must display and on the VT30 fail certificate.

"All the usual caveats apply. Your investment can go down as well as up. Your home is at risk etc etc. This information is not governed by the Financial Services Authority......

"Hazard lights, (if fitted) must work , ignition on, ignition off

"Horn must work. Fuel cap must seal [visible rubber seal, not loose and rattling about, actually sealing is not checked]. Door mirrors to be secure. You must have a driver's door mirror and either a rear view or passenger side one [On vehicles first used before 1st August 1978 only one of interior, external offside, or external nearside mirror is required on passenger vehicles with fewer than eight seats, for those on or after 1st August 1978 there must be two one of which must be 'an exterior mirror or device that provides a view along the offside of the vehicle' according to MOT Manual Section 3.3]

"Wipers must work, with blades that clear the screen and are intact [clear an arc to give an 'adequate' view, not specified]. Washers +fluid. (push type washer is fine). Windscreen - chips bigger than 10mm in the area in front of the steering wheel will fail: as will bigger than 40mm in the rest of the area swept by the wiper blades.

"Indicators left & right. 60-120 flashes per minute is required.

"Side lights - front and back, dip beam, main beam, rear number plate lights. If fitted, rear fog light + tell-tale [if two are fitted the off-side lamp must work. If neither work but they are accessories added by an owner then you may get away with it!]. Brake lights. Indicate left then right and check stop/tail lights don't flash in time. (Reverse lights don't matter [not tested, although at one time if they were operated from a manual switch by the driver they must also have a tell-tale])

"Then put hazards on and all the above, (except indicators) to check that other lights are not "disco-ing" in time with the hazards.

"Seat belts must recoil (often slowly!), unless static type, and lock in place in the buckle. Belts must not be unduly frayed.

"Check the tyre tread depth - it needs to be 2mm (1.6mm is the legal min). Check the side walls for bulges or damage. You can't do much about the inside face without lying under the car!

"Handbrake - does the lever poke you in the eye when you pull it up? Turn the steering wheel - if it moves more than from 12 o'clock to 1 o'clock without turning the road wheels it will probably fail (depends on steering wheel diameter)

"Exhaust must be "supported" - waggle the tail pipe a bit (when cold...) - it shouldn't. Noise is subjective, as it is difficult to determine a "standard" car!

"Number plates - lots of regulations. Stick on ones on the bonnet should pass but don't always. 1/1/73 was the change year from metal black & silver to modern yellow/white. Take the V5C to prove date of first registration and/or ask first!

"Bits must not be obviously falling off!

"Play in bearings, suspension, or steering is beyond the scope of this. If you think headlamp aim may be wrong, remove the chrome bezel before the test to make adjustment easier. If you can see the front brake pads they must be a minimum 1.5mm thick (the thickness of a 5 pence piece).

"Corrosion within 300mm of a suspension mounting or seat belt anchorage or major structural item will fail

"Local classic car clubs/users can best advise on "sympathetic" MOT stations who understand older cars. High throughput / low price ones probably do not fall onto this category! If you are not sure about a particular thing , take the car in and ask BEFORE the test is due!

"If the car has no MOT you may legally drive it to a pre-booked MOT test - nowhere else. Insurance for this trip is a slightly murky area. [You can get insurance without having tax or an MOT. I'm pretty sure it is an offence to drive to an MOT station without insurance, regardless of whether it is a pre-booked test or not. It's not something you should ever put to the test, I suggest, or you may be personally liable for any damage or injury caused to third-parties as well as being prosecuted. Note that someone else may be able to drive your car on their insurance, which may be Third-party cover only.]

"Should the car fail, you can drive it home or to a garage to have it fixed [The MOT station may encourage you not to drive the car away on safety grounds, i.e. have it fixed there and then or arrange for it to be towed/trailered somewhere else, but they cannot legally prevent you driving it away].

"Should you have some days "left" on your current MOT but the car fails the test, you still have an MOT, but you are driving an "un-roadworthy" vehicle. The current MOT Pass certificate shows the earliest date at which the vehicle can be presented for test - just under a month before the certificate expires [But see here]. By having the car tested near this date, there should be ample time to fix items that fail. If the car passes, the new certificate is automatically dated for 12 months from the date of the expiry of the current certificate. However if it does fail, be aware that although you still have an MOT, you are driving an "unroadworthy vehicle" which restricts legal use. The penalties are pretty similar to not having an MOT and whilst technically covered by your insurance in legal terms, you are unlikely to have a claim settled.

[My son when living in London had no facilities to work on his car and regularly had it MOT'd twice a year].

"I've probably missed something, but it's a start! Good Luck!"

For those that have to suffer it, the emissions limits and dates applicable can be found here. Note that there seems to have been a change in rules where later engines are concerned.

You can also check the brakes to make sure the pedal doesn't sink under sustained pressure, and if you have a servo 'empty' it by repeated operations of the brake pedal with the engine off until it stops wheezing, then with the pedal firmly pressed start the engine. While emptying the servo the pedal should get higher and harder, then when starting the engine it should sink a little.

See also the official MOT Manual from GOV.UK. In addition I spend a few minutes each year under the car, at the annual service before the MOT, just looking around and waggling things, bending the brake hoses back looking for surface cracking etc.

November 2011:There are proposals to cease MOT testing of cars registered before 1st January 1960, as well as possibly make testing a bi-annual event for newer cars. One has to ask "Why?" One of the reasons seem to be that owners of 1960 and earlier cars are likely to be enthusiasts and so look after their cars better, but that doesn't follow at all. It's true that pre-1960 cars are 0.6% of the population, and contribute to 0.03" of road casualties and accidents, but that is down to the greater sense of self-preservation of people driving cars of this era. Many cars at the 'lower' end of the classic price scale are likely to be owned by younger and less well-off people, with other cars and families to support, who may well take short-cuts on their pride and joy if they are allowed to. They are equally liable to be owned by people who don't know as much about their cars as perhaps they ought to, as can be seen by some of the questions and comments in the various online communities. Another reason given is that many aspects of the current test are not relevant to older cars - which is true, but in that case they are not tested! It's difficult to see just what could be dropped from the MOT that isn't safety-related. I'm no lover of MOTs, it's taken me 20 years to lose the 'heart in the mouth' feeling on delivering my cars for their tests and getting the verdict. As a Michael Beswick has said, it will only take one child to be killed or seriously injured by a classic car that had a defect that should have been picked up on an MOT, and we might find ourselves under a much stricter regime or maybe even restricted to trailering them to private circuits etc. Nigel Case, owner of the Classic Car Club, is quoted as saying "It’s nonsense. Older cars need more attention. You could buy a car which seems superficially fantastic, but it will be rotten underneath and a death trap."

Even less reason for reducing the frequency on cars less than 10 years old, with the first test being at four years. One of the biggest reasons for failure of modern cars is worn tyres, and you can see this in any supermarket car park. Manufacturers have progressively reduced the ownership experience to one of being completely passive, and most people only ever do things like servicing and replacements when someone tells them they have to. The failure rate is increasing - 35% in 2008, 37% in 2010, and 12% of tyres are illegal on replacement. In the current financial climate people are cutting down on servicing where things might get picked up, and the MOT will be the only time that they can be.

Despite the above, there are new advisories from 1st Jan 2012 which will be failures from 1st April 2012. That's the list of new and amended items, but before you groan about something like the steering lock on an MGB having to be working as I did (Vee's has never worked in my ownership) you might like to have a look at the full manual. This has new and amended paragraphs and sections denoted by a vertical bar to the left, and in the case of the steering lock it is only to be tested on cars first used from 1st January 2001. There are others, like the new main-beam tell-tale check is only on cars first used from 1st April 1986. One thing that applies to all vehicles is the battery condition and security check - all those who have fitted 'battery bins' or 12v batteries and not bothered to re-engineer the clamps take note!

Nut Screws Washers and Bolts (and Grommets)

Torque Values
Translate between part numbers and description for many MGB fasteners
'Fastener Decoder Booklet' A reproduction of the document produced by BMC in 1964, kindly sent to me by Marc.
MGB Bolt Sizes/Taps and Dies by Les Bengtson
MGB 18V Engine Bolt Sizes (threads) by Les Bengtson
British Fasteners Used on the MGB by Dave Dubois
Whitworth sizes and numbers from Samstag Sales.
British Tools and Fasteners, which says it all really (the original link was to The British Tool Company which has been out of business a couple of years.
Rask Cycle on bolt head markings and torque figures.
Uni-Thread, for taps, dies, reamers and much more.
Tracy Tools ditto (funnily enough also in Devon).
Abbey Power Tools, which has Whitworth and BA spanners as well as much else.
Baconsdozen Imperial Tools, Conversion charts for Whitworth and BSF to mm, AF, BA socket and wrench size equivalents etc.
Spanner Jaw Sizes, a useful chart for comparing spanner (wrench) sizes and common nut/bolt use.
Conversions from fractional in 64ths to decimal and metric, also useful for comparing spanner sizes.
Bulkhead Holes and Grommets.

  Torque Values

Nuts and bolts can be assembled with dry, oiled or greased threads. From comparisons made with generic sources of information it seems that the figures in the MG Workshop Manual, at least, are probably for oiled threads. Greasing threads can make them liable to come loose. For example I read many years ago that wheel studs should be oiled, not greased.

Although there are a lot of figures here there are still a lot more where no torque figure is given. It is possible that those given here are 'non-standard' torque values and the rest should be tightened to the 'standard' values for the type, size and thread of the nut and bolt:

  • Geno's Garage
  • Leyton Fasteners
  • Imperial Supplies
  • Also see this list of 'standard' values from the Rover V8 Engine Manual:

    M5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 Nm (3 ft-lb.)
    M6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 Nm (4.5 ft-lb.)
    M8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Nm (13 ft-lb.)
    M10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Nm (26 ft-lb.)
    M12 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 Nm (48 ft-lb.)
    M14 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 Nm (59 ft-lb.)
    M16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .130 Nm (96 ft-lb.)
    UNC/UNF (thread size, not spanner/socket size)
    1/4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8-10 Nm (6-7 ft-lb.)
    5/16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 Nm (18.5 ft-lb.)
    3/8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Nm (29.5 ft-lb.)
    7/16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 Nm (55 ft-lb.)
    1/2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 Nm (66 ft-lb.)
    5/8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135 Nm (100 ft-lb.)

      By Monte Morris.
    Additions by Peter Scott.
    MBG GT V8 Workshop Manual Supplement and Rover V8 Engine Manual.
    Additions from Haynes.
    Printer-friendly version

    4-Cylinder Engine Factory V8 Conversion V8 Gearbox Prop-shaft Rear Axle Front Suspension Rear Suspension Steering Brakes General
    ENGINE (4-cyl)FtLbKgMNM
    Air-pump mounting screwsif fitted182.524
    Big-end boltsearly35 to 404.8 to 5.548 to 54
    Big-end bolts oiled thread12-sided334.545
    Camshaft nutAll models60 to 708.3 to 9.6881 to 95
    Carburettor stud nuts18G/18GA20.283
    Carburettor stud nutsAll models152.120
    Clutch to flywheelAll models25 to 303.4 to 4.134 to 41
    Crankshaft pulley boltAll models709.695
    Cylinder head nuts18G/18GA45 to 506.2 to 6.961 to 68
    Cylinder side cover screws18G/18GA20.283
    Cylinder side cover screws deep cover18G/18GA50.77
    Distributor clamp bolt (bolt trapped)18G/18GA2 to 2.50.3 to 0.353 to 4
    Distributor clamp bolt (nut trapped)18G/18GA4.160.575
    Fan blade fixing screws18G/18GA7.3 to 9.31.0 to 1.39 to 12
    Flywheel set screws18G/18GA405.554
    Front plate 5/16 inch screwsAll models202.827
    Gudgeon pin clamp bolts18G/18GA253.434
    Main bearing nutsAll models709.795
    Manifold nutsAll models15 to 162.1 to 2.220 to 22
    Oil filter centre bolt18G/18GA152.120
    Oil pipe banjoAll models37 max5.1 max50 max
    Oil pressure relief valve domed nutPre-78435.958
    Oil pressure relief valve domed nut78-on405.554
    Oil pump to crankcaseAll models141.919
    Rear engine mounting boltAll models38 to 405.22 to 5.5352 to 54
    Rear plate 3/8 inch screwsAll models304.141
    Rear plate 5/16 inch screwsAll models202.827
    Rocker bracket nutsAll models253.434
    Rocker cover nuts18G/18GA40.565
    Spark plugsAll models182.524
    Sump to crankcaseAll models60.88
    Timing cover 1/4 inch screws18G/18GA60.88
    Timing cover 5/16 inch screws18G/18GA141.919
    Water outlet elbow nuts18G/18GA81.111
    Water pump to crankcase18G/GA172.423
    Water pump to crankcaseLater models253.534
    Note that the WSM quotes 17ftlb for 18G and GA i.e. early cars whereas Haynes quotes early models as 25 ft lb and late models as 17 ft lb i.e. the other way round.  
    ENGINE (Factory V8)FtLbKgMNM
    Carburettor adapter nuts182.4924
    Connecting rod cap nuts 334.5645
    Crankshaft pulley bolt 15020.73203
    Cylinder head bolts 689.492
    Distributor drive gear to camshaft bolt 435.9458
    Exhaust manifold bolts 131.818
    Flywheel bolts 557.675
    Induction manifold bolts 283.8738
    Induction manifold gasket clamp bolt 131.818
    Main bearing cap bolts: Nos. 1 to 4 537.3272
                                      Rear 689.492
    Oil pressure relief valve plug 334.5645
    Oil pump cover bolts
    WARNING! I got mine up to about 10 and they didn't seem to want to go higher. Bearing in mind they are going into the alloy front cover I stopped. If you look at the 'Other V8' figures there are two - 9ftlb and for Suffix B 3ftlb. 3 seems a bit low for oil under pressure (sealant must not be used), but 9 is definitely safer than 13.
    Rocker shaft to cylinder head bolts 283.8738
    Timing chain cover bolts 233.1831
    Water pump bolts: 1/4 U.N.C. 70.979
                               5/16 U.N.C. 172.3523  
    ENGINE (Other V8)FtLbKgMNM
    Camshaft gear bolt 375.1250
    Camshaft thrust plate bolts - If fitted 182.4925
    Connecting rod nuts: 375.1250
    Connecting rod bolts: Stage 1 152.0720
    Connecting rod bolts: Stage 2 Further 80 ° 
    Coolant pump/timing cover to cylinder block 162.2122
    Crankshaft pulley bolt  20028270
    Cylinder head bolts - Engine numbers with suffix B: + */**** Stage 1152.0720
               Stage 2 Further 90 ° 
               Stage 3 Further 90 ° 
    Cylinder head bolts - Engine numbers without suffix B: + * Bolts 11 to 14 - Outer row 446.0960
          Bolts 2, 4, 6, 8 and 10 - Centre row 669.1390
          Bolts 1, 3, 5, 7 and 9 - Inner row 669.1390
    Distributor clamp nut 152.0720
    Drive plate and clamp ring bolts 334.5645
    Drive plate hub aligner Allen bolts 638.7185
    Flywheel bolts 588.0278
    Lifting eye to cylinder head bolts 304.1540
    Main bearing cap bolts + * Initial torque - all bolts: 101.3814
    Final torque: Numbers 1 to 4 main bearing cap bolts: 527.1970
    Final torque: Rear main bearing cap bolts: 669.1390
    Oil pick-up pipe bolts 81.1110
    Oil pressure relief valve plug - Engine numbers without suffix B 334.5645
    Oil pressure switch 111.5215
    Oil pump cover plate bolt - if fitted ** 60.838
    Oil pump cover plate screws - Engine numbers with suffix B ** 30.414
    Oil pump cover to timing cover - Engine numbers without suffix B 91.2412
    Oil strainer bolts 70.9710
    Oil strainer nut - Engine numbers with suffix B 162.2122
    Oil sump bolts + 172.3523
    Oil sump drain plug 334.5645
    Rocker cover bolts: + **** Stage 1 2.50.353
                                            Stage 2 60.838
    Rocker shaft to cylinder head bolts 283.8738
    Secondary air injection adapters - If fitted *** 243.3233
    Spark plug 152.0720
    Timing cover to cylinder block bolts ** 162.2122
    * Lightly oil threads prior to assembly.
    ** Coat threads with sealant Part number STC 50552 prior to assembly.
    *** New adapters must be fitted
    **** New bolts must be fitted  
    Gearbox remote control cover to tunnel3-synch7.5 to 9.51.1 to 1.311 to 13
    Drive flange nut overdriveType D100 to 13013.8 to 18.0136 to 176
    Drive flange nut overdriveType LH55 to 607.6 to 8.375 to 81
    Drive flange nut without overdrivemanual15020.7203
    Mounting to gearbox casemanual15 to 202.1 to 2.820 to 27
    Overdrive sump and solenoid cover
    No official figure, the 'standard' figure for 1/4" UNC/UNF is 8-9 ft lb. See also Factory V8 oil pump cover
    Type LH8 to 91.11 to 1.2411 to 12
    Cam bracket screwsautomatic20 to 402.77 to 5.5327 to 54
    Centre support boltsautomatic10 to 181.38 to 2.4914 to 24
    Converter to drive plate boltsautomatic25 to 303.46 to 4.1534 to 41
    Downshift cable adaptor boltsautomatic8 to 91.11 to 1.2411 to 12
    Drain plugautomatic8 to 101.11 to 1.3811 to 14
    Drive flange nutautomatic55 to 607.6 to 8.375 to 81
    Driving flange nutautomatic55 to 607.6 to 8.375 to 81
    Extension housing to transmission caseautomatic8 to 131.1 to 1.811 to 18
    Filler tube connector sleeve to transmission caseautomatic20 to 302.77 to 4.1527 to 41
    Filler tube to connector sleeve nutautomatic17 to 182.35 to 2.4923 to 24
    Front brake band adj. screw locknutautomatic15 to 202.1 to 2.820 to 27
    Front servo adjusting screw locknutautomatic15 to 202.07 to 2.7720 to 27
    Front servo boltsautomatic8 to 131.11 to 1.8011 to 18
    Governor to counterweight screwsautomatic4 to 50.55 to 0.695 to 74
    Governor to cover plate screwsautomatic20 to 482.77 to 6.6427 to 65
    Lower valve body to upper valve body scrautomatic20 to 302.77 to 4.1527 to 41
    Manual shaft locknutautomatic7 to 90.97 to 1.249 to 12
    Oil pan to gearboxautomatic8 to 131.1 to 1.811 to 18
    Oil tube and end plate to valve bodyautomatic20 to 302.77 to 4.1527 to 41
    Pressure adaptor plugautomatic4 to 50.55 to 0.695 to 7
    Pump adaptor to housing boltsautomatic17 to 322.35 to 4.4323 to 43
    Pump adaptor to housing screwautomatic2 to 30.28 to 0.413 to 4
    Pump adaptor to transmission caseautomatic8 to 18.51.11 to 2.5611 to 24
    Rear brake band adj. screw locknutautomatic25 to 303.46 to 4.1534 to 41
    Rear servo adjusting screw locknutautomatic25 to 303.46 to 4.1534 to 41
    Rear servo boltsautomatic13 to 271.80 to 3.7318 to 37
    Starter inhibitor switch locknutautomatic4 to 60.55 to 0.835 to 8
    Stone guard screwsautomatic17 to 192.35 to 2.6323 to 26
    Transmission case to converter housingautomatic8 to 131.11 to 1.8011 to 18
    Upper valve body to lower valve body scrautomatic20 to 302.77 to 4.1527 to 41
    Valve bodies to transmission case boltsautomatic5 to 90.69 to 1.247 to 12  
    Flange nutsAll models30 to 354.1 to 4.841 to 47  
    Axle shaft nutSalisbury15020.7203
    Bearing retaining nut
    Then align to next hole
    Crown wheel boltsSalisbury60 to 658.3 to 9.081 to 88
    Factory V8638.785
    Crown wheel to differential carrierBanjo55 to 607.6 to 8.375 to 81
    Differential bearing cap boltsBanjo60 to 658.3 to 9.081 to 88
    Differential bearing cap boltsSalisbury50 to 556.9 to 7.668 to 75
    Factory V8537.372
    Half-shaft nutSalisbury15020.7203
    Pinion bearing nutBanjo135 to 14018.7 to 19.4183 to 190
    Pinion nut new spacer only 180 to 22024.9 to 30.4244 to 298
    Pinion nut oil seal changeMark nut, shaft and flange positions, refit and tighten to the same point  
    Anti roll bar linkAll models608.381
    Bearing retaining nut stage 1All models40 to 705.5 to 9.754 to 95
                                   stage 2Tighten to next split-pin hole
    Bottom wishbone pivot to cross-member nutFactory V8456.2261
    Cross member to body4-cyl54 to 567.5 to 7.773 to 76
    Cross member to side member nut: TopFactory V8557.6175
                                                        BottomFactory V8456.2261
    Front shock absorber boltsAll models43 to 455.9 to 6.258 to 61
    King pin to damper - upper fulcrum  405.554
    King pin to wishbone - lower fulcrum  456.261
    King pin trunnion (nut on top of king pin)  608.381
    Shock absorber pinch boltAll models283.938
    Spring pan nuts and screwsAll models223.030
    Stiff nut to crossmember mounting boltMk244 to 466.1 to 6.460 to 62
    Wishbone cross boltAll models283.938  
    Rear shock absorber bolts4-Cyl55 to 607.6 to 8.375 to 81
    Shock absorber to side-member nutFactory V8588.078.6  
    Column clamp bolt
    Note this is given in the manual as "85 lbf inches"
    Factory V870.979
    Road wheel nuts4-cyl60 to 658.3 to 9.081 to 88
    Road wheel nutsFactory V8608.381
    Steering arm boltsAll models60 to 658.3 to 9.081 to 88
    Steering column top fixing boltsAll models12 to 171.66 to 2.3516 to 23
    Steering column universal joint boltsAll models20 to 222.77 to 3.0427 to 30
    Steering lever balljoint nutAll models34 to 354.7 to 4.846 to 47
    Steering rack and pinion bearing nutAll models405.554
    Steering rack fixings304.141
    Steering tie-rod lock nutAll models33 to 384.56 to 5.2645 to 52
    Steering wheel nut36 to 384.98 to 5.2649 to 52
    Steering wheel nut 11/16 in. UNF41 to 435.67 to 5.9556 to 58
    Steering wheel nut 9/16 in. UNF27 to 293.73 to 4.0137 to 39
    Steering wheel nutFactory V8283.8738
    Swivel pin nut stage 1All models608.381
                          stage 2Tighten to next split-pin hole  
    Brake caliper clamping bolts
    Spotted by Ed Woods in the main body of the manual: "Only split the caliper if it is unavoidable, then replace the fluid channel seal, bolts and lock plates. Only bolts supplied by BMC Service Ltd. may be used"
    All models35.5 to 374.8 to 5.148 to 50
    Brake caliper securing boltsAll models40 to 455.5 to 6.254 to 61
    Brake disc to hubAll models40 to 455.5 to 6.254 to 61
    Brake front servo boltsAll models8 to 131.1 to 1.811 to 18
    Brake pressure failure switch (nylon)
    Note given as 15 lb in in the WSM
    Brake pressure failure switch end plug
    Note given as 200 lb in in the WSM
    All models175.527
    Brake rear servo boltsAll models13 to 271.8 to 3.718 to 37
    Brake stone guard screwsAll models17 to 195.5 to 2.623 to 26
    Hydraulic brake pipe connect 7/16 UNF7 to 105.5 to 1.49 to 14
    Hydraulic brake pipe connection 3/8 UNF5 to 75.5 to 1.07 to 9
    Master cylinder port adaptors'Later models'
    (see note)
    335.5 to 4.645 to 45
    Note: Listed in Haynes but not the WSM. I assume it means single circuit systems as only they have an 'adapter' as such. Dual circuit pipes screw straight into the master with pipe unions and have their own torque figures.
    Master cylinder reservoir fixing boltsAll models55.57
    Rear brake adjuster fixing nutsAll models5 to 70.69 to 0.977 to 9  
    Alternator mounting boltAll models202.827
    Alternator pulley nutAll models253.534
    Alternator shaft nutAll models25 to 303.5 to 4.134 to 41
    Alternator through boltsAll models4.50.626
    Distributor clamp nutAll models2.50.353
    Interior mirror special screw
    Note given as 5 lb in in the WSM
    All models0.420.0580.57
    Starter fixing stud nutsPre-engaged30.424
    Starter motor mounting boltsAll models304.141
    Starter solenoid unitPre-engaged4.50.626
    Starter through boltsPre-engaged81.111
    Wheel nutsPressed type60 to 658.3 to 981 to 102


    Primarily for RHD cars.


    Faults and Repairs
    Gearbox Drive Gears
    Pinion Housing
    Cables and Routing
    EGR Valve Service Indicator
    Right-angle drives
    Cruise Control

    There were many different speedos used over the years (I have found 50 so far!) according to year, market and vehicle spec.

    Secured into the dash with two large 3BA knurled nuts 17H1304 and spring-washers, with a U-strap AJH5176 to September 64, separate 'legs' 17H3744 on each threaded stud from then until July 74, and 17H1339 until the 1977 model year. 1977 and later have a much better arrangement where the speedo and tach have three studs in the instrument case, and by turning them clockwise 30 degrees these studs will align with cut-outs in the dashboard to allow the instrument to be withdrawn. Unfortunately LHD only.

    As well as the obvious physical differences in size and markings the 'turns per mile' (TPM) varied over the years, that is the number of turns of the speedo cable to register a mile travelled. This has to be matched to the drive gearing in the gearbox output shaft, the rear axle ratio, the wheel size, and to some extent the tyre size. Get the TPM wrong and both speed and distance travelled indications will be incorrect. Speed is relatively easy to compensate for by making internal adjustments but to correct the odometer different gear sets are required. The table below has been developed largely from the Leyland Parts Catalogue and Clausager and examination of many speedos at autojumbles, with additional information from other sites such as NAMGBR, Autochart and Paul Tegler. However these other sites either don't include TPM figures, are limited in scope, or disagree to some extent with information from other sources.

    I am indebted to Ian John of Caerbont Automotive Instruments for supplying me with a list of TPMs for these speedos.

    Note that speedos not in the list with the exact reference number, even though they have the correct TPM figure, may have different speedo cable fitments, or night-time illumination/ignition warning lamp/main beam tell-tale or fitting arrangements, making fitting them in an MGB not straightforward.

    Speedometer Reference Numbers
    MarketDateChassis No.
    From - To
    Part No.Serial No.TPM/
    All markets
    except Germany
    1962 - Oct67101 - 138400StandardMPHBHA4478SN6125/04,
    4"Jaeger Note 1
    4"Jaeger Note 1
    Germany1962 - Oct67101 - 138400All?MPHBHA4574SN6144/051040!4"560 - 14 tyres
    All?KPHBHA4636SN6144/15660!4"560 - 14 tyres
    All?KPHBHA4637SN6144/13660!4"155 - 14 tyres
    e.g. roadster
    All?KPHBHA4638SN6144/14640!4"165 - 14 tyres
    e.g. GT
    Not Canada,
    USA, Sweden,
    Germany, or V8
    Nov67 - Nov73138401 - 332925
    138401 - 332394
    KPHBHA4709SN6144/21800!4"use BHA5280
    OverdriveMPHBHA4812SN6144/23A1280*4"use BHA5281
    Nov67 - Sep68138401 - 158230AutomaticMPHBHA4707SN6144/201280*4" 
    Nov68 - Aug73158231 - 328800AutomaticMPHBHA4868SN6144/281216!4"Note 11
    KPHBHA4869SN6144/29760!4"Note 11
    Nov73 - Sep74332926 - 360300
    332395 - 36100
    Sep74 - Jun76360301 - 410350BothMPHBHA5339SN5230/131000*80mm 
    CanadaNov67 - Jul68138401 - 153877StandardMPHBHA4707SN6144/201280*4" 
    KPHBHA4709SN6144/21800!4"use BHA5280
    OverdriveMPHBHA4812SN6144/23A1280*4"use BHA5281
    Aug68 - Jul71153878 - 258000StandardMPH37H 3766SN5226/03,
    OverdriveMPH37H 3768SN5226/08,
    AutomaticMPH37H 4180SN5227/161216!80mm 
    Aug71 - Apr72258001 - 282419StandardMPHBHA5084SN5231/001280!80mm 
    May72 - Sep74282420 - 360300StandardMPHBHA5161SN5230/06S1280!80mm 
    Sep74 - Jun76360301 - 410000BothMPHBHA5339SN5230/131000*80mm 
    Jun76 - 1978410001 - 447000BothMPHAAU 3027SN5373/001000!4" 
    JapanSep 77443981 - 447000all ODKPH??6204"LHD to
    North American spec
    Canada & Japan1978 - 1979447001 - 501000BothKPH??6204"Note 2
    Canada & Japan1980501001 onBothKPH??6204"Note 2
    USA for Germany
    Nov67 - Jul71138401 - 258000StandardMPH37H 3766SN5226/03,
    OverdriveMPH37H 3768SN5226/08,
    AutomaticMPH37H 4180SN5227/161216!80mm 
    Aug71 - Apr72258001 - 282419StandardMPHBHA5084SN5231/001280!80mmNote 10
    OverdriveMPHBHA5086SN5231/041280!80mmNote 10
    May72 - Sep74282420 - 360300StandardMPHBHA5161SN5230/06S1280!80mm 
    Sep74 - Jun76360301 - 410000BothMPHBHA5339SN5230/131000*80mm 
    All LHD
    Jun76 - Jun79
    410001 - 498440 (Cal)
    410001 - 503250 (other)
    BothMPHAAU 3027SN5373/001000!4"Note 3
    Jun79 - Oct80498441 (Cal) on
    503521 (other) on
    BothMPH?SRM6006/001000!4"Note 4
    Sep69 - Jul71187211 - 258000StandardKPHBHA4924SN5227/20800!80mmNote 10
    OverdriveKPHBHA4925SN5227/22800!80mmNote 10
    AutomaticKPHBHA4926SN5227/24740!80mmNote 10
    Aug71 - Apr72258001 - 282419OverdriveKPHBHA5087SN5231/08800!80mmNote 10
    May72 - Sep74282420 - 360300OverdriveKPHBHA5164SN5230/09S800!80mmNote 5
    Sep74 - Jun76360301 - 410000BothKPH??62080mmNote 6
    RHD (not Police)Jun76 - Oct78410001 - 480296 GT
    410001 - 481115 Roadster
    OverdriveMPHAAU 3035SN5234/001000*80mmNote 7
    RHD (not Police)Oct78 - Oct80480297 on GT
    481116 on Roadster
    OverdriveMPH SN5234/021000*80mmNote 8
    RHD (Police)Jun76 - Oct80410001 onOverdriveMPHAAU 3036Z 654651040!80mm 
    V8 (not Police)Dec72 - Jul76101 - 2903OverdriveMPHBHA5210SN5230/11S960*80mm140mph
    V8 (Police)Dec72 - Jul76101 - 2903OverdriveMPHBHA5317Z 63973980!80mmNote 9
    Notes:TPM/TPK MPH speedos have a 'turns per mile' number on the dial, whereas KPH speedos have a 'turns per kilometre' number, and there are 1.60934 kilometres to the mile. Thus a Mk1 car with a 1020/1040/1060 MPH speedo uses the same gearbox components as a car with a 640/660 KPH speedo, a Mk2 chrome bumper with a 1280 MPH speedo has the same gearbox components as one with an 800 KPH speedo, and a rubber bumper car with a 1000 MPH speedo has the same gearbox components as one with a 620 KPH speedo. This means that cars can be converted between MPH and KPH simply by fitting the 'other' speedo.
      '*' and '!' '*' after the TPM indicates that I have confirmed the figure on an actual example of the speedo and the number has been confirmed by a manufacturer and repairer of the instruments.
     '!' after the TPM indicates the number has been confirmed by a repairer of the instruments.
     1The Parts Catalogue shows these serial numbers as having the same part number but actual instruments and manufacturers data show different TPMs.
     2Clausager shows Canada and Japan having KPH speedos from 1978, and Canada and Japan 1980 models having 6 - digit odometer, but these changes are not shown in the Parts Catalogue.
     3North American spec including Japan had 4" speedos for 1977 on. 77 to 79 were 120mph, chrome bezel, 5-digit odometer
     41980, 85mph, plastic bezel, trip-reset on the face, 6-digit odometer. Not in Parts Catalogue.
     5Parts List shows this type continuing till Jun76
     6Clausager states 80mm from Sep74 LHD roadsters only made for North American market after Jun76
     7Reads to 120mph, additional kph markings. Figures outside markings, numbers go 10/20/30.
     8Reads to 120mph, additional kph markings. Figures inside markings, numbers go 10/30/50.
     9XA5(XAS?),175x14 tyres, 140mph
     10Use with right-angle drive when the cable enters the cockpit at the right-hand side and goes across to the left behind the dash. Not required where the cable goes across the car in the engine compartment and passes through the bulkhead straight into the back of the speedo
     11Axle ratio changed and hence speedo

    Updated August 2010: Note that 1280 tpm overdrives were used V8s and 4-cylinder chrome bumper cars (the latter having a black label) whereas 1000 tpm ODs were used on 4-cylinder rubber bumper cars and had a blue label. Thus on V8s there seems to be a mismatch between the 1280 tpm overdrive and the 980 tpm speedo, but this is almost exactly counterbalanced by the different axle ratio used on the V8. See here for more information on label colours.

    Lights: July 2020
    Instrument illumination is at the top, the bulb-holder (single wire, red/white) is push-fit, but usually pretty tight so may need to be pulled to one side to get it free. CB cars main-beam bulb (also single wire, blue) is at the bottom, also push fit but much easier to get out and back in.

    Faults and Repairs:
    Whatever you do don't use carb cleaner on the speedo e.g. to wash out oil that has come up the cable as recounted below. Whilst it fixed the speed indication problem it caused the tiny cogs in the main odometer to partially melt and completely jammed it. Fortunately I could re-use the cluster from Bee's old speedo as a temporary measure while I see if there is a reoccurrence of the oil problem, and when I'm sure that is fixed I'll send the speedo off for a proper repair/refurb. Out of interest I tried brake cleaner on the already damaged parts and it had no effect ... but try it at your own risk!

    I've had a copy of a Repairing Jaeger & Smiths Speedometers document by Anthony Rhodes for a long time. That used to be online although harder to find now, it has been rewritten into a web site for Sunbeam Tigers. The Tigers web site has more written information (albeit over 17 pages which is a bit inconvenient), but the original document has more pictorial information and is easier to scroll back and fore, hence both are linked from here.

    However with Bee's 4" speedo it was nothing like as easy to get the guts out of the case as Rhodes states. The trip reset protrudes much too far and will not 'push into the case' as described, and it only allows the mechanism to be moved forwards a few mm with the rear screws removed. I did not fancy trying to remove the pointer from that tiny spindle, so removed the screws holding the dial to the mechanism and with that free to move about under the pointer, and pushing the rubber gasket around the rear shaft up into the case, gave me just enough room to manipulate the mechanism out of the case. However trying to replace it the pointer did ping off - fortunately not snapping the spindle as I first feared, but leaving me with the problem of where to reattach it. That was done successfully, and on a subsequent occasion slotted the hole in the case for the reset shaft and that allowed removal without removing the dial screws.

    May 2021:
    Guy Renou has written to say he was able to remove the pointer surprisingly easily by putting a cloth over the dial, then using the curved tines of a table fork to gently lever it off! With the dial then removed you should be able to manoeuvre the mechanism out of the case with the rubber gasket pushed inside the case, but it does need to be orientated in a particular way, and again to get it back in. But with the dial off you can remove the small circlip from the reset shaft which allows the shaft to be removed, then the mechanism comes straight out.

    July 2020:
    On the way up to the Lake District Vee's speedo started flicking and I wondered whether it was the new cable that had been in about 500 miles. Then it started flicking higher and higher, and when it got to 120, 140 and then the back of the needle stop I knew it had to be the speedo itself. Finally it stayed at the back of the needle stop until we came to a halt when it slowly returned to zero, going round to the stop as we started moving again, confirming it was the speedo. Back home it took about 10 minutes to get the speedo out and opened up (much easier than Bee's) and the problem was immediately obvious - black oil in the mechanism and causing the spinning magnets to pull the needle cup round by much more than the usual magnetic force.

    Note that it is not magnetism that drives the needle cup directly but induced eddy currents, as the cup is aluminium which is non-magnetic. What happens is that the spinning magnet induces a current in the aluminium cup, and the effect of that current flowing in the aluminium is to generate an equal and opposite magnetic field which opposes the field created by the spinning magnet. This opposition cannot slow down the spinning disc, so it causes the needle cup to be dragged round. This effect has been used in electricity meters and to control the speed of roller-coasters and high-speed trains for many years. For the roller-coaster all it needs is permanent magnets on the car, and aluminium vanes on the track. No power supply, no moving parts, nothing to go wrong.

    December 2014:

    I needed to get into the mechanism in order to modify the mileage reading. Bee's trip odo has been jamming regularly this year, which made following Tulip instructions tricky. Fortunately the tenths was still going round, so I was having to add that to the main odo reading, then add to that the next inter (distance to the next turn) for the Navigator to write down. Bad enough, but because the trip and main odo aren't in synch sometimes I ended up a mile out either way. I was going to send it away over winter to be repaired, there are a couple of people who can then set any mileage you require (ordinarily it would be zeroed), but at £90 it's quite pricey and they take several weeks to do it. I'd got to the point of investigating how much new ones were for insurance purposes if mine should get lost, when I thought of looking for used on eBay. I found two, one was exactly right for Bee going by the reference number on the dial at £40. The other wasn't a very good picture but from what I could see looked right, at £20 in 'good condition and fully functioning', both mileages way different to Bee's of course. No shipping price in the ad, and you don't get that until you commit to buy which isn't helpful. Emailed the seller asking them to confirm the numbers and shipping price, but had to wait several days for a reply. Not exactly right - it was originally used on 74 models, but specified in the Parts Catalogue as being backwards compatible with earlier Mk2 cars so fine for me, and shipping a reasonable £5. By that time the £40 one had gone, so I committed to buy this one, then had to wait another week or so with no further info from the seller as to whether it had been shipped or not, before it turned up. First thing I did was test it with my drill on reverse, and the speedo goes smartly round, but neither bloody odo worked! Annoying, as the face and the numerals were in as-new condition, and the bezel and glass were no worse than Bee's. I could have sent it back of course, but more hassle and aggro, and no further forwards. So for the sake of £20 I decided to use it as a learning experience and open it up and have a look at it. Same problems with getting the guts out as with Bee's, which I'd already tried months earlier in an effort to see what was wrong with her trip. See the full story here on fixing the odometers on both speedos as well as a description of how they work.

    Speedy Cables is often mentioned as a source of speedo repairs, but there have been complaints of these taking several weeks.
    JDO Instruments offers a 48 hour turn round which has been verified by members of the MGOC MGB Technical forum. But for the purposes of balance someone ringing JDO about a repaired speedo that had failed had the phone slammed down on him with the words "I'm 80 years old and I don't need this", and someone else said he had used Speedy Cables with prompt return. So there you are - your choice.


    Speedo Drive Gears: March 2008
    Whereas for the 3-synch cars the speedo tpms varied between non-OD and OD cars (but by less than 2%) the speedos for 4-synch cars quote the same tpms (1280 for chrome bumper cars and 1000 for rubber bumper) but there are still different part and reference numbers for the speedos according to whether the car was non-OD or OD. This continued up to September 76 and the 77 model year, when suddenly there is only one speedo (different again for the 'new' plastic dash) for LHD and one for RHD, still at 1000tpm as for previous rubber bumper cars, but no corresponding change in gearboxes or ODs.

    Looking at the parts lists there always were different speedo drive gears and pinions, with different ratios, between non-OD and OD. But whereas the ratio difference is nearly 3% for the 3-synch gearboxes, it is only 1% for the chrome bumper 4-synch (I don't have all the ratio information for the rubber bumper cars). 1% is insignificant (given that speedos in the UK are allowed to over-read by up to 10% but not under-read) so having the same tpms for both is reasonable, but why the different speedo part and reference number if everything else is the same? Even 3% difference for the 3-synch is not that significant in the grand scheme of things, but the speedo tpms for non-OD and OD cars did take this into account. Although even that isn't straight-forward, as the information I have is that Jaeger instruments were 1060 for non-OD and 1040 for OD, whereas the later (1964) Smiths were 1040 for non-OD and 1020 for OD! Whilst the change from crossply tyres to radial may have required a change in gearing, radials weren't available until 1965, and crossplys remained standard on UK cars until 1972.

    The bottom line is that while changing a non-OD gearbox to an OD gearbox using 3-synch will introduce an error of nearly 3%, on a 4-synch car changing from a non-OD to an OD gearbox of the same era will only introduce a 1% error and can be ignored. The important thing to remember on 4-synch 4-cylinder cars is that the OD units changed from a black label to a blue label between CB and RB so if you put a rubber bumper OD gearbox in a chrome bumper car or vice-versa, and don't change the speedo, you will introduce an error of around 20% which is very significant. However the speedo size changed at the same time so it's not simply a case of fitting the speedo that came from the same car as the gearbox. V8s used a black label on both CB and RB, so no change in speedo tpm and all V8 tach and speedo instruments are 80mm.

    Paradoxically using a 3-synch speedo on an RB car or vice-versa would only introduce a 2% to 5% error, unfortunately the speedos are different sizes at 4" and 80mm on RHD cars. One of the great mysteries of life is why LHD cars reverted to 4" from 80mm for the latest plastic dash in 1977 when RHD stayed at 80mm. On the face of it one of those would fit, but RB speedo and tach don't have provision for the ignition and main beam warning lights.

    What speedo drive gears and pinions were used, where and when:

     GearboxWorm GearStartsPinionTeethRatio
    Chrome bumper
    3-synch non-OD
    (dipstick level/filler)
    (white plastic)
    (white plastic)
    or 22H1420L
    3-synch OD
    (dipstick level/filler)
    D-type OD
    4-synch non-OD
    (dipstick level/filler)
    and Auto
    (metal) or
    (white plastic)
    4-synch OD
    (dipstick level/filler)
    LH-type OD
    (black label)
    Rubber bumper
    4-synch non-OD
    (side-plug level/filler)
    4-synch OD
    (side-plug level/filler)
    LH-type OD
    (blue label)
    All V8s
    Note 1
    4-synch OD
    (side-plug level/filler)
    LH-type OD
    (red label but see Note 2)
    Note 1: Using the same pinion and gear as the chrome bumper LH OD may seem incorrect as the 4-cylinder chrome-bumper car has a 1280tpm speedo and the V8 a 960tpm. You have to take into account the rear axle ratio as well, and the lower ratio of the V8 (prop-shaft turns slower for a given road speed) almost exactly balances the difference in speedo TPMs.
    Note 2: Label colours are nominal, with MGC having green according to one source and V8s red, however my V8 is black and Geoff Dunlop's in Australia is green. Ex Laycock people at Sheffield Overdrive Services have told me that if they didn't have the right colour available they used whatever they had to hand albeit stamped with the correct reference and serial numbers.

    'Starts' refers to the number of threads on the worm gear fitted to the gearbox output shaft (a standard bolt only has one start). The number of starts is another way of setting the ratio between worm gear and cable drive pinion, the greater the number of starts the faster the pinion turns in relationship to the worm gear. This Wikipedia page explains the principle very well and has an animated graphic demonstrating a 4-start worm gear.

    SC Parts Group has exploded diagrams of all the OD components (as well as the gearboxes) for all the MGB variants. All the pinions and drive gears are priced, implying that all are available.

    Pinion Housing: August 2020

    The LH OD housing (non-OD and D-type are different) has an O-ring seal to the gearbox body and a lip-type seal in the housing to prevent leaks from the pinion shaft. After replacing Vee's cable the new one is drawing oil up the cable to contaminate the speedo, so investigation with a view to seal replacement was called for.

    Why is this cable drawing oil up when the old one hadn't? There is a seal on the drive spindle, which seemed initially to be missing so I fitted one, but subsequent research indicated it should be well into the housing so one is probably already there. Checking about 50 miles later more oil has worked it's way about one quarter the way up again, so I'm going to have to get the housing and pinion out for inspection and replacing the original seal - probably with yet another new one. That means working with the back of the car as high as possible to limit the amount of oil that can run out, but some is bound to.

    Late October after a 200-miler I take the speedo cable inner out ... and it was slathered in oil again right to the top. So oil still getting into the cable somehow, but the inside of the speedo was clear so maybe just caught it in time. Next step will be to disconnect the cable from the gearbox and see if anything drips out, and keeps dripping. Also to check the oil level and colour to see if it is as black as what's in the cable.

    Early November I check the gearbox and the oil is clean as it should be, so the standard lubrication of the new cable is what must be blackening it. The level hasn't dropped in fact it's a bit high so I let some trickle out. Started removing the cable and the knurled nut didn't seem to be turning more freely or the cable coming loose in the nut, then I noticed the housing was turning! So out from under and back again with a selection of spanners to tighten the forked clamp that holds the housing in, didn't go fully tight, but after a few flats I tried again and this time the knurled nut came free. No oil came out, but I jacked up one rear wheel and ran it in 1st gear for a few minutes with the cable removed, to find a tiny drop of oil where the pinion exits my extra seal, so the housing will have to come off and the seal and pinion removed, examined and maybe replaced. I could replace just the seal at a few pence, but if the problem is the pinion it'll only happen again, and if I think it's fixed I probably won't know until the speedo packs up again. A pal had an OD rebuilt and the drive flange oil seal leaked straight away, they sent him a new seal and flange, so I'd expect the same.

    Still under guarantee from the rebuilder (who sent the OD elsewhere) and he says if I can get them out to see what needs replacing he will contact the OD rebuilder. That's complicated as it may take a while to get the parts, I could get them locally but why should I? Also the back of the car would need to be raised quite a bit to prevent oil running out from the housing hole - OK for a removal and replacement with parts to hand, but I don't want to leave it like that. So it'll need draining. But unless I can catch it in a clean container for reuse that means another £40 for oil - which is almost twice the parts! I can use an empty oil can from an engine oil change earlier in the year as they are clean. But that will need a funnel or it could be very messy, and the funnel needs to be bigger than the drain hole or the funnel will overflow! Also the car needs to be high enough to get the can and funnel underneath and still leave space for me to remove the drain plug, without dropping it, for if that goes in the funnel it will block it and overflow!! But up on my full-length ramps it should be high enough, and will be level so safe to leave with the housing out for a while if needs be, but I'll need an oil change drain bucket to hand just in case, which will mean losing the oil. So much to think about and plan for, and yet another saga.

    Late November: I decide to drain the oil so I can get the car up on the full-length ramps for ease of working underneath. I have an almost empty plastic 5L engine oil can with a short flexy spout. That and its housing can be levered off the leave a large hole in the can, which an old 1L gear oil container with the spout removed fits neatly inside to act as something of a funnel - I don't fancy unscrewing the drain plug and trying to get the sudden flow in the can otherwise without making a right mess. Underneath the drain plug moves easier than I expected - I don't think I checked its tightness on reinstallation! Too much room now, I'm going to have to hold the can and 'funnel' up closer to the gearbox while I'm undoing the plug. Do it over one of my large plastic drip-trays - just as well as some does run down the outside, but at least I don't drop the drain plug in as well, which was another fear. Drains in a few minutes so refit the plug - tightly! Only 2.25L in the can with 3.4L capacity quoted in the manual, something that figures as after draining and up-ending the gearbox after removal, then laying back down again, I did get quite a bit more out. Hope the remainder doesn't run out of the OD with the pinion housing removed!

    7/16" spanner to remove the bolt holding the forked clamp for the housing, and the housing starts sliding out on its own. Get the drip tray underneath while I fully remove it, thankfully no more oil. On the bench I remove the O-ring that seals the housing to the OD casing and the pinion slides out. A long fine scratch the length of the shaft i.e. passing through the oil seal - source of the leak? Closer examination shows witness marks from the seal round the shaft, but there is a definite gap part way round which indicates that part of the shaft was not in contact with the seal, and so a more likely source of the leak. My extra seal comes out easily enough, and is a good fit to the pinion shaft in terms of the resistance I can feel, but with the pinion back in the housing there doesn't seem to be any extra resistance from the original seal than there is from the housing itself. Now how to remove the original seal, which is well recessed in the housing?

    Really it needs some kind of puller that goes in from the speedo cable end, with fingers that go through the seal and can lock behind the metal surround. Then the housing would need to be held firmly while the seal was pulled out - back in the OD!? I opt for bending the end of an old flat-blade screwdriver towards a right-angle, and rounding the ends, to put in from the pinion end and drift it out rather than be pulled, and after a bit of tweaking that does the trick. While writing this I Googled 'small oil seal puller' and found someone else had done exactly that! Someone on that thread mentioned drilling and putting in a sheet-metal screw and pulling it out with that which I know can be done with larger seals but I think this is too small. However it did occur to me that a large screw through the centre of the seal biting into the metal surround might do the same job, but you would have to avoid damaging the part of the housing the pinion shaft runs in which is very close to the seal. Other possibilities were a pick with the tip partly curled back on itself, and other gadgets too complicated to explain and a lot more expensive. Anyway, it's out now.

    Two problems immediately apparent - one is a fine scratch the length of the pinion shaft which may well be too fine to cause a problem, but the other concerns the witness mark of the seal on the shaft. There is a distinct gap in the witness mark, as if the pinion shaft has a slight flat at that point and isn't touching the seal, and I can definitely imagine that resulting in a leak. I email pics of both those areas to the gearbox man, together with a phone call, asking for replacements of pinion and both seals from the OD rebuilder, so Vee is out of action for the time being. If they refuse to cough up at least I can get them from Leacy's when I collect the front screen.

    Time to ponder fitting the new seal - fill the (small) gap between seal and housing with grease as an additional measure? At the very least it would lubricate the new seal and pinion shaft before oil works its way down. A second seal again but pushed all the way down if there is enough plain shaft left on the pinion spindle?

    Tony at Geartech gave me the number for David at Overdrive Spares in Rugby who overhauled the OD and he sent me a new pinion, seal and O-ring with no quibble. When they arrived I tried the new seal on the new pinion and it seemed a much better fit than the old pinion had been in the old seal. Prior to fitting the seal I injected some grease in the seal end of the housing then pressed the seal into the housing using a suitably-sized socket. I then fitted the old pinion just into the seal from the 'wrong' end, and fitted the new pinion from the correct end, the intention being to squeeze the grease between the two pinions to fill the cavity between the seal and the shoulder in the housing, which worked well. Otherwise the end of the pinion would have pushed the grease straight out of the seal without spreading it round to fill the gap. Fitted the O-ring and bagged the assembly up prior to refitting tomorrow. The question then, will be whether to run the gearbox and overdrive after putting the oil back but before refitting the speedo cable ... or just to go for it. I wasn't bothered about doing that jacked up with one wheel removed when the car was on the ground and the wheel ramps, but doing that on the full-length ramps is a less attractive proposition.

    What a pain in the backside that was! It's bad enough that the housing is above the fixed crossmember with the bulge of the OD one side and the narrowing tunnel the other, so even with a smallish hand I can barely get two fingers on the head of the bolt from behind, and with another finger on the other hand from in front I can't see the hole I'm trying to get the bolt in. Not that I can see the hole with the Y-clamp in the way, to know I'm in the right place to start turning the head. I tried using a long screwdriver to position the head and allow me to see but it flapped about all over the place, and I can't feel when the end of the screw is in the hole, let alone lined up. The threaded end of the screw is recessed from flat which makes it worse, so I file the edges off to make it slightly rounded, but still no go. So housing out and try the bolt without the Y-clamp and it goes in straight away. Try the bolt and the Y-clamp and still no go, but try a 7/16" 1/4" drive socket as a 'holder' for the bolt and eventually it goes in, after packing the socket with paper so enough threads protrude and to wedge the bolt. At some point during all this the bolt slips out and falls onto my neck while lying horizontally underneath, then goes into my shirt so I have to crawl out from under and delve in my clothing to find it. Back under again and I realise I'm missing the lock washer, so back out again and more delving to find that. I then come to the realisation that the problem is caused by the housing flange coming right up to the edge of the bolt hole, so whilst I can tilt the bolt in most directions to help align the threads there is a good 90 degrees or more where I can't tilt the bolt towards the housing, so it has to be dead on square while I'm turning it up to a full rotation to pick up the thread. I'm sure it's easy enough off-car where you can use a nut driver on the bolt head and attack it square on, but in-situ it would make it so much easier if the flange on the housing were an 1/8" or so smaller, it's not as if it needs to be as wide as it is. Eventually I do manage to get it started using the socket as a holder, but it has to be spannered in the whole way as it must be right up against the flange on the housing. I found the same when removing it but didn't think much of it, whereas without the housing in place the bolt went in easily with finger-tips. Another few minutes fiddle saw the speedo cable connected, and that 2 hours was more than enough for the morning session!

    After lunch it's refill with oil, I have a 1L bottle with flexy tube with about 500mL left over from filling it after the rebuild, plus the 2.25L I drained out this time in a clean 5L 'can'. So about half a dozen trips under the car after filling the 1L container to squeeze in as much in the side filler as I can which is about half a litre each time, before crawling out again to top up. Eventually I empty the big container and oil starts running out of the side filler so refit the plug, and there is a shade over 500ml in the 1L bottle so not quite as much in now as before. I'll leave it to settle then try again another day after having run the gearbox and OD to be sure oil has got everywhere, but that means getting it off the big ramps which means getting both cars out which needs a dry day! Not that I mind as I'm pretty knackered after what should have been no more than a few minutes to fit the housing and attach the cable. Subsequently checked and all OK.

    March 2021: Only a few dozen miles done because of the poor winter weather, but worth a check to see if any more oil is being drawn up. Some at the top which isn't surprising as the inside of the outer would have been coated all the way up and excess would have beef driven upwards as before, but nothing more than what would seem like 'normal' lubrication the rest of the way down and particularly at the bottom, so hopefully problem resolved. I've not refixed the speedo back in the dash yet though until I've done a good few more miles, hopefully a 200-miler to son's and back ... when it's allowed!

    April 2021: An Easter trip to son's sees said 200-miler sees the inner out next day. Only a little more than I would expect at the top and 'normal' at the bottom so it looks like the seal has done the trick, but I still only put the speedo back temporarily. Just as well as when I went out in the car the speed wasn't registering but miles were ... odd. Took it out, spinning a screwdriver in the cable drive registered on the speedo, so back in, but still no speed. Waggled it in the dash and the needle went up a bit ... then stuck there! Back out again needle has returned, took the mechanism out of the case and can't find anything wrong. Back in the car,. and at some point a light-bulb moment - literally. I suddenly remembered that when fitting LEDs to the instruments I had to put a sleeve on the speedo holder to stop it going in as far as the longer LED 'bulb' was interfering with the needle disk! Somehow each time I had put the LED back in I had contrived to push it in too far, and withdrawing it a little solved the problem. Phew! Still haven't fully refixed it back in the dash though.

    Speedo cables March 2010

    Speedo Fitting
    Erratic readings
    Cable Replacement
    Cable Routing

    Chassis No. GearboxCableLengthNotes
    (May 62-Mar 63)
    (May 62-Oct 67)
    It seems highly unlikely, if not impossible, for RHD and LHD cables to be the same length
    (May 62-Apr 63)
    Not listed, some suppliers show GSD115 as 57", but GSD117 at 60" allows the speedo to be pulled forwards far enough to remove/refit that end in front of the dash rather than behind.
    (May 62-Oct 67)
    (Apr 63-Oct 67)
    It seems highly unlikely, if not impossible, for RHD and LHD cables to be the same length.
    (Mar 63-Oct 67)
    (Mk2-Jun 76)
    Not listed, some suppliers show GSD115 as 57", but GSD117 at 60" allows the speedo to be pulled forwards far enough to remove/refit that end in front of the dash rather than behind.
    138401-153877 (Canada)
    (Mk2-Aug 68)
    138401-187210 (roadster)
    (Mk2-Oct 69)
    138401-187840 (GT)
    (Mk2 - Sep 69)
    not USA, Sweden, Germany
    not USA, Sweden, Germany
    138401-282419 (USA)
    (Mk2-May 72)
    153878-282419 (Canada)
    (Aug 68-May 72)
    North America, Sweden, Germany, without service indicator
    138401-410000 (USA)
    (Mk2-Jun 76)
    153878-410000 (Canada)
    (Mk2-Jun 76)
    North America, Sweden, Germany, without service indicator
    (Oct 69-Aug 73)
    not USA, Sweden, Germany.
    Not listed, some suppliers show GSD115 as 57", but GSD117 at 60" allows the speedo to be pulled forwards far enough to remove/refit that end in front of the dash rather than behind.
    North America, Sweden, Germany, without service indicator.
    (May 72-Jun 76)
    LHDnon-ODGSD145 North America, Sweden, Germany, without service indicator
    360301-386600 (Canada)
    (Sep 74-Sep 75)
    (Sep 74-Jan 77)
    LHDnon-ODBHA5351 North America, Sweden, Germany, gearbox to service indicator
    North America, Sweden, Germany, gearbox to service indicator
    North America, Sweden, Germany, service indicator to speedo
    410001 on
    (Jun 76-on)
    Whilst all previous cars seem to have the same sized fitting at the speedo end, RHD cars from this date, and from what I can tell LHD cars as well, have a bigger fitting so are not compatible with earlier cables, and vice-versa.
    RHD (all)ODGSD3151450mm
    without service indicator
    without service indicator
    All V8RHDODGSD1161422mm
    Not listed, some suppliers show GSD115 as 57", but GSD117 at 60" allows the speedo to be pulled forwards far enough to remove/refit that end in front of the dash rather than behind.

    Speedo Fitting: May 2021:
    RHD speedos on 1977 and later models use a different fitting to earlier and the two are not compatible. Indications are that all LHD are the same.

    Erratic readings:
    Someone having problems with erratic readings which JDO said might be because the cable inner is pressed into the speedo too far. Cables do vary, with 77 and later appearing to project much further than previously, so I've taken some measurements, see the detail from clicking the attached thumbnail.

    Under reading of both the speedo and odometer can be caused by the gearbox drive flange nut not being tight enough (the drive gear is not splined into the shaft), D-type OD should be 100 to 130 ft lb, LH OD 55 - 60 ft lb, non-OD 150 ft lb. See here for how to hold the flange still while tightening (or undoing) the nut.

    Regular downward pulsing of the needle, if coincides with the ODO tenths wheel moving, can be caused by a dry cable or speedo input shaft, a single drop of oil on the end of the shaft will cause no harm. If it flicks more frequently than that it is probably broken strands in the inner.

    Cable Replacement: March 2020
    Vee breaks her cable and as well as the turmoil created by Coronavirus and companies trying to keep going with people working from home, the part numbers and lengths are very variable between suppliers, which led to some head-scratching.

    Eventually resolved that, then about 150 miles later on our way up to the Lake District in July the speedo started flicking - damned new cable, I thought. But the flicks were upwards, getting higher and higher, until eventually the needle went all the way round to hit the back of the stop. Until we came to a halt, when it slowly went back to zero again, only to move all the way round again as soon as we started moving. That's got to be the speedo itself, and proved to be oil having worked its way up the cable and into the mechanism, acting as a viscous coupling between the spinning magnet and the needle disc. Eventually got that cleared, but not without damaging the main ODO in the process although I was able to replace it with the one from Bee's old speedo. Cleaning the cable an a few more miles showed more oil - so why not with the old cable? But all I can do is investigate the pinion housing.

    Cable routing
    On non-OD boxes the cable attaches after the gearbox main casing, which on 3-synch at least is just forward of the removable crossmember, as in this image from Clausager.

    On OD gearboxes the cable attaches further back on the output of the OD and above the fixed cross-member. This cross-member on 4-synch cars has a notch which together with the connection being angled slightly forwards allows the cable to leave the gearbox at almost a right-angle, the bulk of the curve turning forwards being in front of the cross-member and under the floor. Early cars do not show this notch (Clausager p76), but 3-synch gearboxes with the earlier D-type OD do seem to offer more space to allow a right-angle drive to be used. However if a broken right-angle drive on a non-OD gearbox was not replaced (they are expensive) this may need a slightly longer cable to avoid a tight turn.

    It should then pass under the removable cross-member and be supported by a P-clip, however both Bee and Vee have theirs above and cable-tied to the other cables and pipes. In Bee's case the cross-member is the wrong way round so the tapped hole is on the other side. And whilst Vee's is correct, and I could have fitted it in the correct position, where they are is more protected from any rocks, traffic-calming measures etc. and as neither have exhibited any problems in my ownership where they are I've left them be (until I replaced the cable).

    Clausager shows a clip holding it to the tunnel wall by the clutch slave on a Mk1, no reason to assume it isn't the same on later cars although neither Bee nor Vee have it.

    On RHD cars it passes through the bulkhead via a hole in the top of the drivers footrest, and from there makes a graceful turn up and back into the RHD speedo head.


    There is also the question of right-angle drives.

    The Parts Catalogue doesn't show or list one with the 3-synch standard box but does show and list 13H2567 (120694) with the D-type OD. The drive on the 3-synch standard box exits pointing slightly backwards, and on the D-type OD comes out at a right-angle to the line of the gearbox, which means especially for the non-OD gearbox a right-angle drive allows the speedo cable to run straight forwards and makes sense.

    It lists but doesn't show the same item for 4-synch non-OD boxes but lists and shows it for the LH-OD but is completely unsuitable for both. The drive is angled forwards, which not only makes it difficult to attach a right-angle drive and cable especially on the OD with its casting bulge right next to it, but the fixed crossmember has a notch to allow a longer cable to make a smooth turn direct off the gearbox or OD, and the removable crossmember has provision for a clip to support the cable closer to the chassis rail.

    It lists but doesn't show it for the automatic box, but exiting at right-angles similar to the 3-synch it does need one.

    An important factor on BL gearboxes at least is the provision of copper spacer washer 3H550 between the angle-drive and the gearbox, usually listed in the Parts Catalogue with the angle-drive. Without that there are excessive end-loads on the angle-drive resulting in premature failure, possibly from the square drive shaft protruding too far.

    What about the speedo end?

    The Parts Catalogue indicates one for the speedo as well - BHA 4794 - for Sweden and Germany from chassis number 187211 (1970 model year), North America from 258001 (1972 model year) to 282419 (May 1972), then 13H2567 for apparently all 1977 and later LHD cars. It would have been needed where the cable came up into the right-hand footwell as for RHD cars (which is at the top of the clutch foot rest) then across the car behind the dash. This would have resulted in too tight a turn behind the LHD speedo in the limited space available, hence the second unit. A number of people with LHD cars have said their cable comes up past the RHD entry point, across the engine compartment at the heater shelf, then in through the bulkhead in front of the driver direct to the speedo, rendering a speedo head right-angle drive unnecessary. This includes 3-synch cars using the large hole under the hinge slot, although Clausager appears to show a 74 car routed in this manner but using a smaller hole further above and towards the centre of the car than the large hole (which contains the heat control cable?).

    The question is what happened on LHD cars prior to the 1970 model year? Did they run across the bulkhead in the engine compartment like post-May 72 cars and hence not need one? If so it seems odd that they then brought it inside the cabin for two years, needing a second drive, but a different part to the gearbox one. But this 1968 model has the cable inside the cabin in the right-hand footwell, and has a right-angle drive on the speedo.


    EGR Service Indicator

    North American rubber bumper cars had an EGR valve service indicator from 1975 which was a warning light triggered every 25,000 miles. A resettable counter intercepted the speedo cable, and was positioned on the bulkhead as shown here on Bill Etter's car. The warning light was illuminated each time the car was started as a lamp test facility. The service indicator was deleted for Canada from 1976 on, and for the rest of North America from 1977 on, which ties in with one of the speedo cable changes listed above.

    What year is my MG?

    By John H. Zajac

    Often the question comes up regarding "What year is my MG?" with the early cars. Cars built in 1951, or even 1950 are titled as "1952" TDs, for example. Early MGBs built in 1962 or 3 may be listed as 1963 or 1964s. Owners of early cars are especially urged to know their VIN numbers in order to get the correct original equipment. Why?

    My understanding of the situation is that the "model year" was an American, primarily GM, invention. In the 1930's GM's chairman, Alfred Sloan began the practice to showcase annual styling changes. Soon, every other US manufacturer followed suit, and the concept of a "model year" starting in the fall of the year started.

    This system was alien to most European manufacturers, including MG. VW even used their rather stable product plan to their advantage with the Beetle's advertising in the States. The European manufacturers basically updated their cars when required for competitive reasons, and only loosely followed a "model year" concept. MG up until the late sixties was like this, hence the issue with when was it built, when was it sold, what year is it anyway, what do I put on the title? Early cars had model years "designated" by the dealer. It was a world where model years were ingrained into American paperwork registration, and titles (after all, who couldn't tell the difference between a '59 Chevy and a '60?), but with imports from Europe, well, it was a different story. The dealer typically filled out the paperwork so that a car sold in the model year (October to October) was of that model year, regardless of date of manufacture.

    What changed that "system" was the safety and emissions regulations which phased in requirements by model years for cars sold in the US. Once that occurred, all the European manufacturers had to follow US procedures for VINs, and linking US-destined cars to specific model years and levels of safety and emissions equipment. Of course, old habits are hard to break, and while I'm sure MG put in all legally required equipment, I've heard how sometimes earlier parts sometimes ended up in the next model year's cars on occasion.

    So - it's not unusual for cars exported to the States sold prior to 1967 (I think that's when the first safety/emissions laws became effective) to have wildly different dates of manufacture vs. model year on their title, and why after that a system was imposed on the VIN designation. Later cars, therefore, will have their model year "baked into" the VIN regardless of the date for manufacture. It's easy to imagine how MG would have had to have been building the next year's model in late spring or early summer in order to be in showrooms in the U.S. by the fall.

    © John H. Zajac
    reproduction permitted by author, provided authorship & copyright acknowledged

    From 'Original MGB with MGC and GT V8' by Clausager

    True VINs, including the model year, only appeared on the very last MGBs - those built between June 1979 and October 1980. Before that car or chassis (UK) or serial (North America) numbers of the form 'G-HN5/nnnnnn-G' (for an MG, 1800cc engine two-seater tourer, 69-79 model, built at Abingdon) were used. In the UK a vehicle's 'year' is generally regarded by owners as the date it was first registered, the exception being for inclusion in the 'Historic' registration class and its free annual Road Fund Licence or Tax Disc, where the cut-off date (31st December 1972) relates to the date of manufacture rather than the date of first registration.

    Clausager refers to 'model years' from 1969 on, which started production in November 1968. Thereafter the new model year could start production at any time from May 1978 (for the 1979 model year) to December 1974 (for the 1975 model year) but was typically August or September. 1974 saw another main change-point in September, for the '1974 1/2' model year cars and the full rubber bumpers. Small changes appeared constantly throughout production, however. The changeover points, listed by chassis/serial number, could be a little chaotic as 'old' parts were used up before 'new' parts were used. Therefore it was common for a car with a chassis/serial number before the change point to have some parts that should only have appeared after the change point, and vice-versa. The only thing that could be said for sure is that, as far as is known, matched items were fitted i.e. you wouldn't get a car with one 1976 headlight and one 1977!

    Dating your car by its windows - based on the original compiled by Neil Cairns. Updated October 2008

    MGs made in the 1950's to the late 1970's can be dated by the 'TRIPLEX CODE' etched into or screen printed onto the toughened glass. This also works for any other make using TRIPLEX glass.

    Note that it dates the GLASS, so is only an indication of the cars age, assuming the glass is original.

    If you are not quite sure of the year of your car, but the decade is known, just look for dots above and below the TRIPLEX TOUGHENED or LAMINATED logo on the glass. Unfortunately it is complicated by the code system changing in January 1969.

    Before January 1969 one dot above T, R, E or X gives the quarter of the year the glass was manufactured:
    T = Jan, Feb, March
    R = April, May, June
    E = July, Aug, Sept
    X = Oct, Nov, Dec

    From January 1969 the code indicated the month not the quarter, and although the same four letters were used there could be one, two or three dots used:

           .                                       :    .
    Jan    TRIPLEX (dot over the T)        Jul     TRIPLEX
            .                                      :     .
    Feb    TRIPLEX (dot over the R)        Aug     TRIPLEX
                .                                  .     :
    Mar    TRIPLEX                         Sep     TRIPLEX
                 .                                  .    :
    Apr    TRIPLEX                         Oct     TRIPLEX
           :                                            .:
    May    TRIPLEX (double dot over T)     Nov     TRIPLEX
           :.                                            :
    Jun    TRIPLEX                         Dec     TRIPLEX
    But which year? Nine letters make the word TOUGHENED or LAMINATED, one dot below a letter gives the year of the decade:
    T/L = 1, O/A = 2, U/M = 3 and so on. However, if you see no dot (or possibly a dot under a space after the last letter), the year is zero.

    Say your car is a 1950's MG, then TRiplEX TOUGHENED, with one dot over the 'R' in Triplex, and the other under the last 'E' in Toughened, indicates 'April/May/June 1958'.

    My 75 GT has Sicursiv side glass but a Triplex heated back-light with a dot over the E and one under the G, indicating March 74. The car has a build date of May 1975, so you can see that glass (and quite probably other components) could be hanging round for some time before being used - no Just In Time then!

    My thanks to Pierre De Rijck of Belgium for questioning this information when he found multiple dots on his windows, as originally the information from Neil only indicated one dot. The additional info came from these Spitfire and Mini (NLA) sites. However it should be noted that these two differ for 1969 and later for the months of March and April. The former shows the dots over the I and P of TRIPLEX whereas the latter shows then over the E and X as previously. As both sites show only the E and X letters being used in all other cases, I'm tempted to think the Triumph site is in error and have assumed such. Pierre also mentioned his two side windows had different codes. This could have been due to breakage in the past, but in his case the two codes seem to be consecutive months in the same year and so are more likely to be from two production batches rather than one. If LHS and RHS glasses are made, packed and shipped separately rather than as pairs this is more then likely, especially given the apparent gap between manufacture and fitting. Less so if the glasses were shipped as pairs, but still possible if one were damaged or a defect found during the build of the car.

    One source indicates that Sicursiv didn't start date coding until around 1990.

    The following pages contain similar information in some cases for more modern cars, and there are many other pages found with Google:
    Turner 950 Part and Assembly Information
    Bob Beranek


    Body   Brakes   Clutch   Cooling   Electrics   Engine   Fuel   Gearbox   Heater   Ignition   Propshaft   Rear_Axle   Steering_and_Suspension   Wheels

    The following sites carry information on a variety of topics:

    So good it deserves a line of its own right at the top - a set of 'How to' videos from John Twist and University Motors
    I've had to delete the links to the MGOC articles on things like axle clonk repair etc. as you have to be a member to get access to them now. But even then it isn't easy finding them - you have to go to Members Area, Technical Archive, enter search terms and select 'Within Enjoying MG only'. Looks easy written there, but I had to have several goes to get there the first time.
    from Paul Kile Paul Lewis and Norm Nock all of the Sacremento Valley MG Car Club
    Barney Gaylord's 'The MGA with an attitude' - mainly MGA but some details and much general information will be applicable to the MGB. MGA and MGB technical information from British Automotive
    Scions of Lucas (SOL). Technical info for MG and other marques much of the 'other marques' info will also apply to MG to some extent. Skye Poier's 'The MGB Experience' site
    Rich Mason's 'Helpzone' Tech Tips from the NAMGBR
    Robert Epstein's 'MGB Tech Tips' John and Elaine Hubbard's 'MGB-GT' pages
    Chicagoland MG Club - Tech tips for a variety of marques and MG models from Moss Motors (now only available by logging-in)
    Parts sources from (Bob?) Lundgren Automobile Repair manuals Online (not)
    Robert Bentley manuals MGB Parts List available online from Moss USA. Other MG models and marques available.
    Miscellaneous MGB info from AutoChart Inc. Classic car restoration courses at UK Further Education Colleges from Restored Classics
    Maintenance tips, recalls and Technical Service Bulletins from SlickCar by Kris Rinson Fuel Additives Lubricants and Coolant reference information from Stephen Ringlee's Volvo Maintenance FAQ
    MOT Manual from GOV.UK UK MOT info from Haynes
    Using a vacuum gauge for fault diagnosis. Les Bengtson's Classic MG Sports Car Restoration information
    More speedo info from Autochart Yet more speedo info from Paul Tegler
    Speedo repairs from Anthony Rhodes or as a downloadable PDF Speedo repairers and suppliers Speedograph Richfield successors to Smiths Industries
    Bespoke and replacement instruments from Caerbont Automotive Instruments Another on-line Parts Catalogue from Brown and Gammons in the UK
    Handy Reference Information from Pegasus Auto Racing - Decimal inch equivalents copper electrical wire specs and more. Smiths and Jaeger speedo repairs from Tigers United
    John Twist's Tech Tips hosted by NAMGBR, on a variety of topics. US Mechanic EDU brings together the best mechanic training information available in one convenient place.

    Body Links:

    Bodywork from John Elwood. Paint Codes from Paul Tegler's 'Teglerizer' site
    British car keys cut in the USA by Pete Groh. Roadster screen from Lee Daniels (updated link)
    MGB Chrome Bumper Conversion sites from Google Body Rotisserie from Bob Beaupre
    Body Rotator from Skye Poier 'The Instillation (sic) of Sills & Rockers' from Classic Auto Restoration Services. A commercial site but includes 'How to' and FAQs.
    Hood/top fitting from Washington DC Centre MG Car Club Remanufactured parts from British Motor Heritage Ltd.
    Brief information on fitting a child seat in the back of a GT. The lap and diagonal static belt from Securon can be found here. NOTE: Check the legality of these in the UK following the change in UK law from 18th September 2006, although it seems that systems with an older BS approval marking will remain legal until May 2008. Other than that it is legal to have an unrestrained child (or two) in the back of a GT, but illegal to have them restrained with an unapproved system. Herb Adler on radio speakers, door alignment, door latches, central door locking, alternative seats, fitting an arm-rest cubby, bonnet release, wheel arch liners

    Brake Links:

    Brake fluid from Veteran Triumph Register Servo overhaul on a TR6 from Buckeye Triumphs.
    Low brake fluid level warning - note the remote servo can suffer seal failure which causes all the fluid to be sucked out of the master! Herb Adler on alternative brake light switches

    Clutch Links:

    Herb Adler on clutch release/throwout bearing

    Cooling Links:

    'Advanced Cooling System Basics' (sic) from Stewart Components Herb Adler on cooling system enhancements

    Electrics Links:

    Smartscreen intermittent wiper control. So good I have them on both my MGBs. Lamp/bulb and fuse info from 'Automotive Lite Bulbs'
    More lamp/bulb info from Daniel Stern Lighting including FAQs, Tech info and 'How To'. Note that headlamp aiming shows LHD, reverse the images for RHD. Lots of electrics info on the 'The T*****h TR6 Web' much of which is also relevant to MGs.
    Alternator conversions from Bob Muenchausen. Converting 4-cylinder tachs to V8 from the British V8 Forum.
    Tach calibration and repair from Mark Olsen's Sunbeam Tiger pages. Includes the circuit diagram of the inductive circuit. Rebuilding a tach with modern electronics from Theo Smit's Tiger pages includes a link to a description of how to modify the inductive tach to work with electronic ignition.
    Tip from Crane (may work with other manufacturers products) if your inductive tach (64 to 72) doesn't work with your new electronic ignition. Enlargeable coloured wiring diagrams in PDF format from Advance Auto-wire. These differ from the Workshop Manual Haynes Bentley in that associated components are placed together so reducing the amount of wiring snaking about and hence making them easier to follow.
    Lucas relay info on CRC's TVR site. Lucas Technical catalogues for bulbs, switches etc.
    Racemettle geared starters, contains useful info on the number of pinion teeth used by each model. Herb Adler on column switches, radio speakers, instrument voltage stabiliser, central locking, alternative brake light switches, LED instrument lighting

    Engine Links:

    V8 power for the MGB from Dan Masters MG V8 conversions from Mike Barnes
    V8 conversion from Glenn somebody or other More V8 conversion from commercial site V8 Developments
    'MGB V8 Conversions by Roger Parker' - a noted authority A Buick V8 conversion by Leon Zak
    MG Engines from the TA to the MGF by Neil Cairns BMC engine numbers from 1952 to 1990 also by Neil Cairns. However the section on Gold Seal numbers doesn't include those for the MGB, for which see here.
    More info from Neil Cairns, this time on the differences between the 18V engine as used in the MGB and that used in the Marina. Got an 18V engine with a funny number? These were used in the Sherpa van. (Note March 2007: Not currently available but I'll leave this link here for a while in case it comes back.)
    Rover V8 engine number ranges from Capri Racing. Doesn't actually include the factory V8 MGB (or the RV8 as far as I know) but may be helpful if you get hold of an engine for a conversion. Oil filter study from Russ W. Knize.
    Engine oil bible from 'The Speed-Trap Bible' by Chris Longhurst. Also see the sections on Snakeoils and Additives. 'More Than You Ever Wanted to Know About Motor Oil ' from The Vintage Triumph Register. Biased towards the makes and grades available in the USA.
    Another oil filter study from SHOClub More oil info, this time from a British biker, but mostly applicable to cars. Explanations of viscosity, detergency, relationship between gear and engine oil viscosity ratings, synthetics and additives ("Don't!" in this last case).
    Another oil filter study. Two words of warning though - this relates to very high output close-tolerance Ford engines, and to me at least the detailed data conflicts with the conclusions. Compression Tests - from Puma Racing
    Engine weights for many marques by Dave Williams, passed to me by Bob Howard. MG 4-cylinders under 'BL', V8 and V6 under 'Rover'. Some engine dimensions, only for the V8 in the case of MG, also some gearbox weights. See here for Workshop manual info. Cylinder-head casting numbers - a frequent source of questions - from British Automotive
    MGB cylinder head identification from Sean Brown's, mainly for North American spec engines. A little more MGB cylinder head identification info this time from Paul Walbran Motors in New Zealand.
    Herb Adler on oil leaks, head removal, running-on, exhaust

    Fuel Links:

    Carburettor Models by Year from Paul Tegler's 'Teglerizer' site
    Polishing SU dashpot covers by Paul Tegler 'Living with Unleaded' from Rick Astley
    SU Carburettors by Scott Fisher and Roger Garnett Tech info from ZTherapy
    THE S.U. VARIABLE CHOKE CARBURETTOR by Malcolm Land - what it is and how it works. SU Carburettor Tips by Jim Taylor from the Jaguar Clubs of North America, including piston 'drop test' specs
    Unleaded Fuel - a technical guide from Puma Racing. Detailed pictures of the HIF6 carb linkage pieces on the factory V8 from British Auto.
    Several SU fuel pump articles by Dave Dubois. RON MON and PON (American) octane ratings explained from Wikipedia and compared by Mad Mole.
    Zenith/Stromberg water choke by Rick Jaskowiak. And for a picture of a manual choke conversion click here. SU/Butec carb data from Peter & Rita Forbes' Engine Webpages.
    SU carb and fuel pump parts from SU Burlen. Includes spec data on things like piston springs. 'Minty Lamb SU Needle Compare-o-rama'. Shades of Wallace and Gromit, but it is an on-line SU needle comparison and selection program.
    Alternatively a downloadable comparison and selection program from Scott A. Beavis. Herb Adler on fuel pumps, carbs, using a Colortune, fuel tank sender, fuel leaks

    Gearbox Links:

    A gearbox testing tool from Kai Radicke Adding overdrive to a non-overdrive gearbox by Octarine Services
    Theoretical Top Speed calculator from mySportsCar. Modifying the rear crossmember to give improved access to the gearbox mount bolts. NB: Not sure if this is strictly necessary if you attach the crossmember to the gearbox before you raise the cross-member up to the chassis rails.
    Herb Adler on gearbox problems, alternative gearbox

    Heater Links:

    Heater Valve Improvements for BMC B-Series Engines from Bob Muenchausen's 'Muenchausen's Garage' MGB Heater Rebuild and Upgrade from Chicagoland MG Club
    Herb Adler on an alternative heater tap

    Ignition Links:

    Distributor curves from Paul Tegler's 'Teglerizer' site Electronic Ignition Systems from Autocar Electrical Equipment Co Ltd
    More distributor info from Doug Jackson's 'British Automotive'. Even more distributor info from TDC Engineering many Lucas serial numbers not just MG.
    Yet more distributor info from AutoChart Inc. Tuning (as opposed to 'setting-up') Lucas distributors also from TDC Engineering.
    A problem and solution when installing electronic ignition systems. Product information for the 123 electronic distributor. For installation and technical data see here.
    Transpo supply the electronic module for the 45DM4 distributor. Select 'Ignition Modules', 'Delco', and it is the DM1906. Original-spec advance springs, yes advance springs, from Distributor Doctor, although unfortunately only for 25D and not 45D. Other springs available if you can quote dimensions, also all other distributor parts and a rebuilding service.
    Points, condensers, rotors and caps reputedly of better quality than those from the usual suspects, as well as electronic ignition conversions. Herb Adler on the distributor

    Propshaft Links:

    Driveline alignment - problems and solutions from Drivetrain Specialists of Las Vegas

    Rear Axle Links:

    Wheel hub and rotor/disc measurement points from Wheel Vintiques See just how much a live axle like on the MGB can move about when pushed
    Herb Adler on banjo diff, octagonal nuts

    Steering and Suspension Links:

    Tube shock conversion from Paul Tegler's 'Teglerizer' site Suspension bible from 'The Speed-Trap Bible' by Chris Longhurst
    Make your own steering column/rack shaft alignment tool. Original link replaced by a section in 'Spanners' as more information has come to light, click on the globe then 'Column/Rack Alignment'. Herb Adler on steering, rear bump stops, spring breakage

    Wheel and Tyre Links:

    Tyre sizes and axle ratios from Skye Poier's 'The MGB Experience' site Tyre sizes and axle ratios from Scott Galaba's BMW M Coupe and Z3 Coupe site.
    Wheels and tyres bible from 'The Speed-Trap Bible' by Chris Longhurst Tyre sizing sidewall info construction etc from Dunlop
    Tyre Size Comparisons from Club DSM Wheel and Tyre Sizing from AGP Motorsports
    Tire/Wheel Combination Calculator from Rick Tolan Lots of stuff on wheels and tyres from the All Morgan site
    Solent Wheels, who apparently make a good job of refurbing V8 wheels where the chrome is peeling. They powder-coat the whole wheel silver, then top-coat the alloy with satin black, and polish the areas round the cut-outs, all for £50. They do not split the centre from the rim in the process as re-riveting is an extremely safety-critical process. My local wire-wheel rebuilder - Phillips & Son, Unit 3, Seven Stars Road, Oldbury, West Midlands, 0121 544 9060, just a couple of minutes from J2 of the M5. The map (click the globe) has the green arrow close to where they actually are between the canal bridge and the A457, even though that is shown as Park Lane and not Seven Stars Road.
    Central Wheel Components. They can make stainless spokes to fit MGB wheels for you to fit but do not work on the wheels themselves, only motorbike wheels. Highly polished they are close to chrome, but are said to resist breakage better. Weights of many wheels, probably all after-market.
    British Wire Wheel - based in the USA despite the name. Sell both Dunlop and Dayton so a useful price comparison.

    If you know of any sites containing technical information that you would like to see listed here (including your own of course) please mail me with the URL.